1650 ignition issue

MoMike

Member

Lost the switch on my 1650, wouldn't do anything, no click, no turning over, anything. Bought a new switch, wired it up now when I try to start the tractor it cranks in ignition but doesn't hit until you let go of the switch and then when it drops into run position it fires right up. I thought I had followed the wiring diagram and rewired everything to specs but now I'm not sure. Any thoughts?
 
Sounds like it has a ballast resister by pass and the ballast resister by pass is either not hooked up right or it is burned out. As in when it is spinning over it has not spark but the moment you let off of the key it has spark and starts. One way to be sure is hot wire it and if it starts right up by pass circuit has something wrong with it
 
I checked a couple of Oliver diagrams. If it uses resistance there is probably a resistance wire from I or Ignition terminal on switch to one side of coil. Then there would be a wire coming from I terminal on start solenoid to input to coil. This activates when cranking engine and bypasses resistance for hotter starting.

If the bypass is not working and there is power from switch through resistance wire to coil it should still start. Bad resistance wire would give opposite effect, that is it would start and then die when switch is released.

Is there something miss wired on the switch. Sounds like wire from switch to coil is on wrong switch post and losing power when switch turned to activate start solenoid
 
Hot wring a tractor does no harm unless you run it that way for hours. Yes the points will burn if left that way for a long time but that is all that will happen unless you leave it hook up a very long time and then the coil can go bad also
 
DC current load through the points will be 100% over design. The condenser will be sized somewhat incorrectly to deal with the doubled back emf across the points at separation. Neither is good for points life, particularly the latter. The condenser effect might be ameliorated or exacerbated due to the manufacturing tolerance of capacitor values (perhaps as much as plus or minus 20%).

If the power to the coil was inadvertently left switched on, without the engine running, the coil might have to dissipate four times the amount of heat if the voltage is doubled. If the contact points happen to be closed (so this occurs), the coil may well be heated sufficiently to destroy the internal insulation and could over-pressure the coil to the point of case rupture.

Parts are, for sure, designed such that they operate normally at much lower capacity than conditions which would be very likely to lead to premature failure. Running at 100% excess voltage will most certainly be running far closer to, if not exceeding, the safety margins designed into those items.

Starter motors appear to be the exception - but only because they are operating for short periods and attain higher rotational velocity. At stall, the 6V motor with 12 volts applied will most certainly smoke before one with only 6V applied.
 
I wired the switch, orange to ignition post, pink to solenoid post, white to accessory post. Starter solenoid has pink on solenoid post, 2 wires fused to one terminal on ignition post, one wire bolted to the main post behind the battery cable. The colors are extremely faded on the starter and behind the dash as a previous owner lost/misplaced the cover plate. If necessary could I put an internal resistor coil on it? If so would I still hookup the condenser? Just a thought, is the post that sticks out the solenoid or ignition post?
 
On the switch, move the white wire from accessory to ignition post with orange wire

White should be the resistor wire going to the ignition coil. Orange wire on ignition post is to turn on the regulator for the alternator
 
Still doing that for an hour or so will not hurt a thing. I have done it thousands of times and have yet to burn out or other wise cause a problem and it is a good trouble shooting way to figure out what is going on. As for safety margins what point have a safety margin I don't think so ya they will burn out faster if you run it along time this way but as i said an hour or less which is all it takes to trouble shoot they will be just fine BTDT many many many times
 
That is precisely why I posted exactly as I did.

I will say again "do not use the quick check as a fix". Early faliure of ignition components is "likely".

That is all I posted. I really thought that should be clear to everyone. Exceed design limitations at your own risk.
 

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