9n electronic issue.

kpaddock

New User
Despite new battery, conversion From points to electronic ignition, tractor fails to start. Tractor failed to start before conversion with points & condenser. Getting about 3.5 - 4 volts on coil with multimeter. Grounded to engine block. Resistor needs changed? New ignition switch? Wont start if connected to battery either.
 
You said, "Wont start if connected to battery either." Do you mean you bypassed the ignition and ballast resistor and it still won't start? Are you getting spark at the spark plugs?
 

Always wondered why people think they can solve a no start problem by converting to e-ignition or 12 V when they can't get it to start with points and 6V. Just saying.
 
Ditto, W-B! The biggest myth on these old N's is the front mount distributor and the 6V/POS GRN System. As our old curmudgeon Dell always said, "...if it doesn't start on 6V, what makes you think if you switch to 12V and/or EI???" He'd go on to say there are but less than handful of correct ways to convert to 12V and a thousand ways to wire it wrong. "I know all the right ways but have found no reason to convert any of my N's". 90% of non-starting issues are due to incorrect/mucked up wiring, that's a fact. Now, there are pros and cons to both systems, and nothing wrong with a 12V conversion, IF done for all the right reasons, but to just swap out because you don't understand the 6V/POS GRN electrical system is not one of them. Electronic Ignition only eliminates the need to use breaker points and if shorted out will destroy the unit so you've now lost all that $$$ you spent and are back to square 1. The FORD 6V/POS GRN system (used since 1903) along with the N front mount distributor are the most mis-understood features on these N's. There are now only about 3 or 4 good point sets made, all others are junk including the ECHLIN brand that use to be one of the good ones. FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR: You need to pull the distributor off and rebuild on your bench or kitchen table, you can't do it from your tractor. Use the manuals for correct method of setting the timing. Test unit BEFORE remounting -see Bruce(VA) tips. The cam weights have offset tangs that are set in the cam shaft slots. Mounting the distributor onto the engine is the tricky part -only ONE correct way and if set off 180° will bust the base and ruin it. Many fellas ruin their dizzys this way, then since will still fail to start, give up and think 12V will fix it. Correct Wiring is everything. Start with a good fully charged battery. Your shop guy can test on his equipment, don't think your charger will do anything. Go by the correct diagrams whatever system you are using and don't guess or skip steps. Firing order is 1,2,4, 3 CCW. Often #3 and #4 plug wires get crossed up.

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR – WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180° OFF:
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FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:
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WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR; OEM 9N & 2N ELECTRICAL SETUP:
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FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
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Tim Daley(MI)
 
I also agree with you.
Solve the problem First. Then fix it and
stop throwing parts at things.
I was tempted to make a comment similar
to yours when I read this thread
yesterday.
On the other hand, comments like this
also make me wonder:

[i:654c4848f0]"and nothing wrong with a 12V
conversion, IF done for all the right
reasons"[/i:654c4848f0]

In my book, if a guy wants to convert his
tractor because it matches his new
tattoo, because his avuncular Aunt Hilda
won big money on 12s at the casino,
because it's his 12th anniversary,
because 12 is the number of teeth he has
left or because his first child was born
12/12/12 those may be "right reasons"
enough for HIM and no one needs to go
second guessing his motive.
 
Thanks. I didnt convert to 12v system still a 6v. Set distributor with #1 cylinder at top dead center also. Will check for cracks in distributor. And check entire wire system.
 
(quoted from post at 08:55:16 07/12/20) Despite new battery, conversion From points to electronic ignition, tractor fails to start ........ Getting about 3.5 - 4 volts on coil

(quoted from post at 08:47:22 07/14/20)
(quoted from post at 07:41:43 07/12/20) is your tractor 6 volt?
Yes

(quoted from post at 08:50:28 07/14/20) No spark to plugs either.



Most 6 Volt Electronic Ignition units won't fire with less than 5 volts (usually a problem while cranking).
One of the reasons to convert to 12 volts when desiring Electronic Ignition.
A 12 Volt Electronic Ignition will usually fire with a minimum of 8 Volts (usually [b:68aca9e035]NOT [/b:68aca9e035]a problem while cranking)
 
(quoted from post at 12:11:10 07/14/20)
(quoted from post at 08:55:16 07/12/20) Despite new battery, conversion From points to electronic ignition, tractor fails to start ........ Getting about 3.5 - 4 volts on coil

(quoted from post at 08:47:22 07/14/20)
(quoted from post at 07:41:43 07/12/20) is your tractor 6 volt?
Yes

(quoted from post at 08:50:28 07/14/20) No spark to plugs either.
o....take that extra complicating/unknown out of the equation (for now) & put the points/condenser back until you have it running.



Most 6 Volt Electronic Ignition units won't fire with less than 5 volts (usually a problem while cranking).
One of the reasons to convert to 12 volts when desiring Electronic Ignition.
A 12 Volt Electronic Ignition will usually fire with a minimum of 8 Volts (usually [b:8d3fd24041]NOT [/b:8d3fd24041]a problem while cranking)
 

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