Removing Rusty Exhaust Manifold Bolts

My 52 82 has a Exhaust manifold leak and the bolts are very rusty.
I've had the 8N for about 26 years. My wife's father-in-law had the engine rebuilt a few years before he sold it to me. He bought a 3 cylinder diesel. So the gasket is at least 30 years old.

I would thank everyone for their 2 cents worth on how you removed your rusty bolts without breaking them.

the original setup was brass nuts on studs. are u sure u have bolts instead?

Weather it's brass nut and studs or someone put bolts in, PB Blaster or something similar and lots of patience. Heating and cooling, tapping.

What's a 52 82??? ; > ) [GRIN] yeah, ok, a typo, we know you mean "8N". The FORD OEM exhaust manifold setup used STUDS, not bolts, so if yours were switched out, somebody swapped them out and now you are paying the price for removal. FORD used the 7/16-20 brass hex nuts for the purpose that with steel, heating and cooling of the manifold would cause the nuts to work-harden and thus make removal difficult. With brass, stubborn nuts could be easily cut off or ground off. Stubborn nuts can be removed with a nut splitter but would be almost impossible to use with the manifold obstructing them. In that case, since you are going to replace the manifold with a new one, a rubber wheel is your best friend. With either nuts or bolts, I'd try multiple applications of PB BLASTER, several times a day, for several days, each time making attempts with a good 6-POINT deep well socket to loosen. Don't round off the head as you'll end up in a worse state. If you have bolts, you can always grind off the heads and then replace with the correct p/n 88403-S7; 7/16-20 & 7/16-14 X 1-5/8" STUDS; 351436-S7 lockwashers; and 33816-S19 Brass Hex Nuts. There are kits sold for the 4 nuts and lockwashers -SEE LINK- and the studs are also available as well. FWIW & FYI: STUDS are made with both the UNC (coarse) and UNF (fine) thread pitch sizes, each on it's own end. The UNC (7/16-14) end fastens into the cast iron engine block. The UNC 7/16-20 end accepts the brass hex nuts. I suggest to drain some coolant from the radiator petcock before performing the manifold replacement project as stud removal often will allow a stud or two to unscrew and then you have the water jacket in the block exposed and you will get your clothes soaked. Surface of the block must be clean and free of all debris/old gasket material before applying new one. Use the two new gaskets supplied with the new manifold. 7/16-20 Brass Manifold nuts are spec'd at 27/FT LBS torque but if no torque wrench is available, use your best guess with a 6-PT socket and hand. New muffler clamp fastens with large end down. It's best to remove carburetor and air cleaner tube before you begin.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000"></td></tr><tr><td> </td><td></td></tr></table>
MANIFOLD BRASS NUT KIT