8N Carb trouble

Pa Farthing

New User
I am working on an 8N can't get the float to work right. I bought a new carb it was junk. I think the casting has a crack the drain plug drips, the float won't shut off the needle seat was stripped. So I bought a repair kit for the original carb. It had a different needle and seat it wouldn't open so I bought another kit that had the same needle valve .it acts like the float sticks if I install it open it stays open and floods the motor out .If I install it closed it won't open and let gas flow and the motor dies. I bought a new float still won't work.

I would appreciate any help I can get. Its my grand daughters tractor. Haven't worked on a flat head for a long time .But I have worked on marvel carbs in the past .They don't seem to complicated . But I can't seem to get it right
 
Sounds like float is dragging on side of bowl. May be able to put something like grease on sides of bowl or float and look for transfer. Bend accordingly.
 
And when you done doing what Jesse suggested, button it up and slowly turn the carb upside down near your ear. You should hear the float fall when you turn it
upside down.
75 Tips
 
Does the needle stick closed before you assemble the halves?
If so, you could try polishing the seat with an orangewood stick.
 
Send me your OEM Marvel/Schebler carb and I will rebuild it and guaranteed to work perfectly. "I think the casting has a crack - it drips' -either it does or it doesn't. How do the drain plug and the needle valve seat threads get stripped out on anew unit? Did you muck with them? I wouldn't trust anything new sold in todays aftermarket market to be set correctly out of the box. There are some cheap-arse junky Cheena made clones and there a maybe two decent makers out there. Rebuilding the OEM part is always best IMHO.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
It was a new needle so I polished it with 2000 grit paper didn't have an orangewood stick. lined up the float and put it back together. I could hear the float rattle.
It started up now for the next problem. It seems to have a electrical problem. I think it is a timing problem. That is what I was working on before the float was a problem because every time I shut it off gas filled the intake.
Is there some way to start from scratch. I'm not sure if the distributor is off one tooth or if it is some thing else.it just misses a lot. When I put a timing light on it, it doesn't appear to be right. They had it adjusted clear to the end of the slot on the distributor.
The book says to start with the number one piston at top dead center and the distributor at the number one plug. How do I know when the piston is at top I can't seem to get a stick in the spark plug hole to work. I can't seem to get the stick on to the piston.
Also is it possible that when they overhauled the motor they got the gear on the cam off a tooth. I don't know if that is possible I have never worked on a ford like this one.
I think it was overhauled right before we got it and I'm beginning to think they couldn't get it to run and that's why they got rid of it.
When I started to work on it the number one cylinder was dead. I took a compression test and it was fifty below the other three . when I took it apart you could tell it had just been worked on they had put a set of chrome rings in it. I put a set of rings on the number one piston. I don't think it had been run enough to seat any of the rings. Not sure what was wrong with the ones on number one, but now they are all the same. I put a new distributor on the old one had a lot of play in the shaft .
That's why I think if there is a way to start from scratch and just assume there is some thing not right and maybe it will show up.
 
(quoted from post at 17:23:34 02/21/19) It was a new needle so I polished it with 2000 grit paper didn't have an orangewood stick. lined up the float and put it back together. I could hear the float rattle.
It started up now for the next problem. It seems to have a electrical problem. I think it is a timing problem. That is what I was working on before the float was a problem because every time I shut it off gas filled the intake.
Is there some way to start from scratch. I'm not sure if the distributor is off one tooth or if it is some thing else.it just misses a lot. When I put a timing light on it, it doesn't appear to be right. They had it adjusted clear to the end of the slot on the distributor.
The book says to start with the number one piston at top dead center and the distributor at the number one plug. How do I know when the piston is at top I can't seem to get a stick in the spark plug hole to work. I can't seem to get the stick on to the piston.
Also is it possible that when they overhauled the motor they got the gear on the cam off a tooth. I don't know if that is possible I have never worked on a ford like this one.
I think it was overhauled right before we got it and I'm beginning to think they couldn't get it to run and that's why they got rid of it.
When I started to work on it the number one cylinder was dead. I took a compression test and it was fifty below the other three . when I took it apart you could tell it had just been worked on they had put a set of chrome rings in it. I put a set of rings on the number one piston. I don't think it had been run enough to seat any of the rings. Not sure what was wrong with the ones on number one, but now they are all the same. I put a new distributor on the old one had a lot of play in the shaft .
That's why I think if there is a way to start from scratch and just assume there is some thing not right and maybe it will show up.
missing a lot" isn't a timing issue. Are the wires in correct order of 1-2-4-3? No way to put a stick on piston thru spark plug hole.
wAMST9O.jpg
 
Is it a side mount distributor or front mount?
You can't put the front mount in wrong without breaking it.

To find TDC on a side mount, pull the plugs, put your thumb over
number one plug hole, turn the engine by hand until you feel
compression, then turn by hand until the timing marks on the
flywheel show TDC or more likely, the 4 degrees before that you
want. Don't just go by the flywheel though as most have two sets
of marks on them. It has to be TDC on compression stroke.

At that point, where the rotor points is where the #1 wire goes.
If you want it to be "book correct" you can turn the distributor
to the right place. If not, put the wires on 1-2-4-3 CCW from there.
 

I did a search for your forum name
thinking it might have been a character
from some old literature but found
nothing.
So it's your own.
I like it.
 
Mr. Farthing,

Of all the twin floats that I've squared up, straightened, trued up, it wasn't on new floats from Rochester or wherever, they were float arms bent incorrectly, float drop tang incorrect, poor needle to float contact . . . discrepancies inherited from previous mechanical efforts. In the world of mechanics it's always good to assume that you may have inherited someone else's negligence or flat out mistakes.

I've spent lots of bending time getting twin floats positioned in the bowl so that each has exactly the same free space around it as the other. Check how the float rides on the needle. I like as smooth a full centered contact at any angle as I can get.

I've re-bent the long arms of a Rochester float, to get a better contact angle at that needle tang -- so the tang is as laid down and square to the needle head as possible for the easiest sliding.

Not to mention incorporating into the bending, the setting of both floats to the exact same level.:D

Signed,
The Midnight Rambler
 

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