Rebuild question??

Lynn Patrick

Well-known Member
'43 2N. I got this tractor running & it ran VERY smooth but is evidently cracked as it gets water in #4 cyl. I am rebuilding a '50 8N engine to replace it. In tearing down the 2N engine to see what I can salvage I find the rod caps are not matched (stamped numbers) w/the rods. Are these rods & caps usable or toast? The pistons are in better shape than the ones in the 8N engine.
What's the opinion of the group?
Thanks!
 
Take them to an automotive machine shop and have them checked.

It's the only way you will know for sure, unless you have the equipment and skills to do it yourself..

They have specialized equipment to check and "recondion" connecting rods, and it's "just another day at work" for them.

When rebuilding an engine, it's good practice to have this done, even if markings aren't suspect.
 
Before you go too far, are you sure the 2N engine block is actually cracked vs a bad head gasket? There
seems to be a lot of head gasket problems out there.
 
if the numbers are not matched and mixed up then someone has no clue as to what they were doing. any time u have a miss match the rods must be resized to get the proper sizing back.the ends are machined down then bolted and torqued to spec. then resized on a machine to original spec's. any engine rebuild should include rod resizing. over time they get egged shaped.important to keep rod ends in proper order. each one is a matched unit. same thing goes for main brgs.
 
Thanks guys. I used a good head gasket only to see the leak, so I redid it w/a metal gasket & copper spray. Same result. The 2N block is suspect anyway as it had a bent valve & one freeze plug looks like it is held in w/a large ring glob of chewing gum - or JBWeld. I'll probably just use the 8N parts.
Anyone need other parts - cam, crank, governor, etc.....?
 
Thanks guys. I used a good head gasket only to see the leak, so I redid it w/a metal gasket & copper spray. Same result. The 2N block is suspect anyway as it had a bent valve & one freeze plug looks like it is held in w/a large ring glob of chewing gum - or JBWeld. I'll probably just use the 8N parts.
Anyone need other parts - cam, crank, governor, etc.....?
 
(quoted from post at 10:10:34 12/16/18) Thanks guys. I used a good head gasket only to see the leak, so I redid it w/a metal gasket & copper spray. Same result. The 2N block is suspect anyway as it had a bent valve & one freeze plug looks like it is held in w/a large ring glob of chewing gum - or JBWeld. I'll probably just use the 8N parts.
Anyone need other parts - cam, crank, governor, etc.....?

Have you had the head checked for cracks?

TOH
 

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