Wiring update

Reversing wires on the ammeter solved that problem. Went to 30+ for a few seconds and then started to drop, leveling out at about 7~8 amps. The old carb even decided to act right long enough for me to make a couple of passes up the driveway with my box blade. Just still don't get why the battery was dead sitting for 6 days. Had it checked and it tested good under a load to over 800 cold cranking amps he said.


No hydrometers are to be had in Florence, Al (at least on Sunday anyway).

Jim
 
(quoted from post at 15:08:51 08/19/18) Reversing wires on the ammeter solved that problem. Went to 30+ for a few seconds and then started to drop, leveling out at about 7~8 amps. The old carb even decided to act right long enough for me to make a couple of passes up the driveway with my box blade. Just still don't get why the battery was dead sitting for 6 days. Had it checked and it tested good under a load to over 800 cold cranking amps he said.


No hydrometers are to be had in Florence, Al (at least on Sunday anyway).

Jim

I have battery cut off switches on both my tractors since they get very little use. The batteries stay up quite well.
 
Didn't think about that. Thanks. Mine won't see a whole lot of use either. That's why I don't put any ethanol in any of my yard stuff. dead batteries are a pain, but nothing like the crap they're trying to
pawn off on us as gas will do to a carb!

Jim
 
I've been following your posts off and on, but I have a horrible memory.
Is this a 12V conversion with a one wire alternator?
That setup can drain your battery even when working correctly.
Pull the negative battery cable if you're going to leave it set a while.
Or use a disconnect switch as stated. Or fix it. Probably by
replacing the alternator. A normal free test at the parts store
won't show that draw down if that is the cause.
 
If the battery checks good, will sustain a charge UNDER LOAD, via hydrometer/specific gravity verification and/or bench test equipment, then something is still not wired correctly and it is shorting out to ground hence causing the battery to drain. Forget the carb for now, if it passes the fuel flow test, concentrate on electrical. Baby steps. Root Cause Problem Solving. I've seen hydrometers at most franchise auto parts stores, sometimes located on the check out counter. Did you ask? Not that some kid may actually know what one is. Granted, not many options to work with on a Sunday, same around here. You don't really need a battery cut-off switch either, but it's your tractor and your $$$. I'd invest in a battery maintainer/float charger like the 'Battery Tender'. It keeps the battery at a full charge so when you need it it's ready to go. Constant discharging and recharging is what shortens the life of a battery.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Tim is right, I'm getting tired of saying this. But a one wire alternator won't draw down the battery in 6 days. With the key in the off position you should not be able to see voltage anywhere except the hot terminal on the solenoid or the wire on the alternator. Does your tractor have lights? Something is bleeding the voltage off.
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:13 08/20/18) Tim is right, I'm getting tired of saying this. But a one wire alternator won't draw down the battery in 6 days. With the key in the off position you should not be able to see voltage anywhere except the hot terminal on the solenoid or the wire on the alternator. Does your tractor have lights? Something is bleeding the voltage off.
good alt drain is so low it should still start in the 6 months to year window. Almost like a battery on the shelf.
 

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