9N 12V cant read battery voltage while running

roxndirt64

New User
Heres a weird one. Converted my 9N to 12 volt. Used a GM alternator. Jumped the T1 and T2 terminals together. Installed a ballast resistor (Napa ICR13) inline to 6V coil. Started it up everything was charging good. Had it running long enough to play around with the carb that I just rebuilt. Shut it off and wouldnt restart. No power to coil. Disconnected wire at coil, and then had power to coil wire. Should have had 2 resistors inline probably. Replaced coil with a 12V coil. Tractor started up but cant read battery voltage anywhere. Shut the tractor off and turn key on not running and can read voltage. Anyone else run into this?
 

yes, with my cheap digital meter. try an analog meter if u have one. the noise from the ignition confuses some digitals.
 
Roxie........iff'n you use the new 12-volt 4-nipple coil, you only need the original ballast resistor inside the dizzy. Yer description implys you left the 2-resistors in the circuit. That'll cause LOW sparkies and hard starting. HFJ is correct, cheap digital meters don't like sparkies. I was a calibration engr fer the Boeing Co and know what HFJ is talking about.......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
If the points happen to be closed when you measure the voltage on the coil primary, it would be normal to read little or no voltage because then the points are grounded and are therefore trying to drag the entire primary circuit down to ground potential through the coil primary and ballast
 
Keep your amp meter.. real men know how to read one, and know what it's telling them about their charging system and health of
their storage battery. A volt/ohm meter is a good diagnostic tool for your tool box.

Also.. don't tie your excite and sense line together.. or you will have an alternator that drains your battery.

Tie sense to charge stud, charge stud to non battery side of your ammeter.

From your key switch, thru a 194 lamp, or similar load, to the excite line.

If you are loosing power to your coil, you may have very poor wiring and connections, and the wire cannot supply the 3-4 amps
your ignition needs AND the 1-3 amps that COULD be flowing to the alternator excite line.

Fix your wiring and post back.
 

Real men with real experience start there diagnosis with a volt meter... Sorry bud but that's the way it is in the real world...
 
(quoted from post at 11:26:28 10/18/17)
Real men with real experience start there diagnosis with a volt meter... Sorry bud but that's the way it is in the real world...

True, I use the voltmeter that is in my tool cabinet in the shop, The ammeter on the tractor tells me all I need to know on a day to day basic.. When I need to troubleshot a wiring problem I break out the OEM and have at it.
Welcome to my world!
 
(quoted from post at 12:29:46 10/18/17)
(quoted from post at 11:26:28 10/18/17)
Real men with real experience start there diagnosis with a volt meter... Sorry bud but that's the way it is in the real world...

True, I use the voltmeter that is in my tool cabinet in the shop, The ammeter on the tractor tells me all I need to know on a day to day basic.. When I need to troubleshot a wiring problem I break out the VOM and have at it.
Welcome to my world!
 

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