Minneapolis-Moline BF Timing, Firing Order, and Distributor

Le67zaney

New User
I need help. I own "according to the serial number" a 1953 Minneapolis-Moline BF and have had issues with it lately. The main issue in question now is what is "origin" spot on the distributor? I recently replaced the cap because the old one was in bad shape, but I tried pull starting it and it wouldn t start. I ve had to pull start it because of the bad battery but I just had it running the other night so I don t know if I screwed up the order of wires. The engine is marked as a Hercules IXB3SL and is an in-line four, it s a Delco-Remy Distributor that spins clockwise. Any help is appreciated.
 
Will not start unless there is enough
fire in battery to fire points.
Magneto is self exciting. Distributor
requires battery voltage to fire points
 

I tested the battery and it read OK on both voltage and load test. We tried pull starting it again today in what we thought might be the correct plug order but it just seams to backfire. We tried putting it out 180 on the order and pulling it again but then the wheels lock up. Could this possibly be due to timing being to far ahead and stopping the cylinder when it fires or could it be another issue?
 

We got it running because it turns out that the wires were only 90 out but it still doesn t start by key. The starter will click and maybe turn it once but it won t turn it over repeatedly. I m thinking it might be the solenoid but I m not sure. Any idea?
 
Let us start over and find #1 cylinder and take all the plugs out and turn it over till number one comes up on compression. Then see where the rotor is pointing and see if that wire goes to number 1 cylinder. If not you will need to take that wire and move it to number 1 #4 will be 180 degrees from number one. There are only 2 firing orders possible for a 4 cylinder in line. They are 1 - 2 - 4 - 3 or 1 - 3 - 4 -2. I will need to look which one you have. E-mail me if you have questions. J.
 
If your BF has the short ground side battery cable that runs to the torque tube under the battery tray, try cleaning all your connections on
the positive side to the starter solenoid and use a jumper cable from the battery negative to the starter itself. You can leave the neg cable
on, just clip the jumper over it. There are at least 3 bolted connections between the torque tube and the starter and rust or dirt any of
those places can cause problems.
 

Mine has a 2/0 cable running from the positive on the battery directly to the starter itself. I went through with a wire brush and cleaned the surfaces to a shine where the starter meets the housing and where the cable meets the starter and it still barely turns. I tried shorting the starter and it still didn t seem to want to turn anymore than it did. Could it possibly be a bad starter even solenoid even though the starter turned on a test machine?
 

It wouldn t matter if those connections are clean or not if the battery is connected directly to the starter right? Especially since the starter switch is out of the loop since we shorted the starter?
 
If you have a good cable direct from the batt to the starter, fine and dandy. but like T R K says to complete the circuit the neg has to go through the tractor. So use a jumper to make a direct connection to the starter. Or use another vehicle and jump right to the starter. Don't go willy nilly replacing parts you don;t need. Also make sure that your batt terminals are good on the cables. many times batt posts are clean, also terminals, but the cable wires are not, inside the terminals.
MMDEL
 

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