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MM r is alive!

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Just posted up on tractor talk, with a link to a video of it starting. Gonna have to figure out hand clutch! Minnie mo Mick was half afraid to drive it because the clutch is sticking a bit. Seemed to get better with some driving. Valves are tapping, may need adjusting? Exhaust is leaking at elbow under hood and the hood gets fairly hot. Adjusted the brakes but still doesn't stop good. Any tips ? Top radiator hose was hot , bottom one was cool even after 15 minutes of driving. Temp gauge was on hot real fast. Radiator never boiled over though. Gauge shows a charge ,I'm guessing that means generator is good? Lots to learn. Thanks for any help.
 
Did you get a carb kit at O'Reilly's like I said and did I give you the correct kit number?? As for the clutch it has been parked a long time so it will take some driving to clean off the rust it is likely to have on it. As for if it is charging or not do a volt meter test. When not running battery should read around 6.3 volts and running ti should read 7 -8 volts.
 
Hey Old, carb kit number you gave was 1 number off,but we got it. Guy was amazed when I told him you had the number in your head! Kit will be here tomorrow. Float seems to be sticking, if we leave gas on and tractor not running carb fills up and leaks.
 
Regarding the clutch--you've probably already figured this out, but I noticed in your video that you were just slamming the lever forward. It's just like a foot clutch in that you have to slowly ease it forward, then after you're moving shove it ahead till it locks into place. Takes a little practice, but you'll get the hang of it.
Also, some of those clutches tend to jerk a little no matter how careful you are.
 
Guilty!! I was slamming it back
and forth. I was also letting off
the brakes real easy thinking it
was the clutch!! Got a learning
experience going here!! It's a
cool tractor for sure
 
If you pull the float needle seat out and then did not get it tight or the gasket is missing that will cause that. Or if the float rubs the side of the float bowl that will cause it. Or if you shake it after having had it in gas and it rattle it is bad. Soo if the 778-505A was wrong what was the correct number?? By the way when you get done rebuilding the carb flip it up side down then right side up and listen for the float to move. If you do not hear it move it is sticking. Also that kit will have a rubber tipped needle so set it In the seat and then tap on it a few times wit ha screw drive handle or other such thing. That puts a set in the tip of the needle so it will seat better
 
If it was not 778-505A then I'll bet it is 778-515A. As for the clutch as the other Rich said in and out easy not slam it in place. Full throttle and you slam it forward in the right gear it will pop a wheelie or spin a rear tire
 
The hand clutch on a Minnie or a Case should be velevety smooth, not grabby and squally like one of those green thngs, lol.
 
Lol. Never drove one of the green
things!! Got a couple Fords. A
640 and 960. Also a '50 farmall
cub. Clutch on all them is where
brakes on MM are!!
 
The hand clutch on a Minnie or a Case should be velevety smooth, not grabby and squally like one of those green thngs, lol.
 
Not all MM brake pedals are where the left hand foot clutch pedal is on an IHC. The UTU has brake pedals down low behnd the rear axle castings.
 
R's are known for the axle seals leaking and getting oil on the brakes making them less than effective. Only way to correct it is to pull the axle housings to access the brakes. Replace seals, Clean everything, and either replace brake disks or bake the oil out of them in an oven. Not a hard job but a bit more involved than most brake jobs.
 
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