Perkins diesel engine coolant temperature

2003 MF231S, Perkins 3 cylinder, new temperature gauge, engine never smokes, uses no oil, starts well, runs well, about 2000 hours.

The lower radiator hose never gets too warm to hold.

Gauge shows 25% when at operating temperature. Is this normal? Do these engine run that cool?

I'm about to change engine oil to Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40, Wix 51515 filter.

What gives with the cool engine coolant?

They have a 180 degree thermostat, the Perkins 903.27 engine is has looks like the old Perkins ad3.152, and the Perkins in my old 135 is the same way. The radiators in them seem to work really good, if you work it really hard for awhile you will probably see the temp go up some. On my 135 the top of the radiator is pretty hot (by touch) compaired to what the lower hose is.

(quoted from post at 01:37:39 12/11/17) They have a 180 degree thermostat, the Perkins 903.27 engine is has looks like the old Perkins ad3.152, and the Perkins in my old 135 is the same way. The radiators in them seem to work really good, if you work it really hard for awhile you will probably see the temp go up some. On my 135 the top of the radiator is pretty hot (by touch) compaired to what the lower hose is.

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I agree. When I bought this tractor earlier this year, the radiator had a bullet hole in the core. Had it repaired and it hasn't leaked a drop. I had to chisel the oil filter off as it was on so tight.

The seller had painted everything...even mud left behind by the previous owner. Now, I've got to put new slip rings in the alternator.

I may also rebuild the hydraulics.

This tractor has become "part of the family" similar to the motorcycle, the motorhome and other inanimate objects.

Don't call me strange...at least not yet.

All the Perkins motors we have run cool. Both 180s run cool and dads 275 runs cool as well. Never messed with the 3 cylinders but that's my experience with the 4 cylinders. I figure its just the nature of the beast.

I've bought several temp gauges from ebay that don't ever move off zero, took one off and it worked in boiling water but again not on tractor. I have a laser type hand held and it comes in real handy.

I ran about a 30% mix of kerosene once and worked it lightly and the temp bumped the top of the "normal" range on my 245 fairly quickly. Yours shows your water pump and radiator are in good condition. The only time my engine gets really warm is when plowing or mowing hay for hours at a time. In the winter I put a stiff plastic bag between the grill and the front bumper to keep it warm, never gets close to the hot range.

(quoted from post at 09:23:44 12/12/17) I've bought several temp gauges from ebay that don't ever move off zero, took one off and it worked in boiling water but again not on tractor. I have a laser type hand held and it comes in real handy.

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Does your engine temperature gauge use a filled bulb with metal tube? Mine uses an electric resistance type sensor with one contact. If yours is the filled system style, make sure there are no kinks in the tube.

If the electrical resistance style, you may have a bad connection at the temperature sensor or the sensor itself may be defective. They are cheap. Mine was OK but was coated with paint. The needle was off the OE temperature gauge when I bought the tractor used.

Engine temperature and engine oil pressure are important parameters to watch when working the engine at high loads. My oil pressure is fine and the oil itself has just barely darkened (sooted) in the ~100 hours I have used the tractor since I last changed the old oil. Next change (soon), I'll be using Mobil Delvac 1300, 15w-40 and a new WIX 51515 oil filter. The low soot in the engine oil indicates that the rings are in good shape.

The low soot likely portends that the engine is generally in good condition and has a long, healthy life ahead provided I do the maintenance, don't abuse it and keep antifreeze coolant in the radiator. And while it rarely gets below 20 F. here in Dixieland, my garage is not heated so, the tractor, motorhome (lots of coolant, water tanks, waste tanks, plumbing, etc.) must be protected from freezing. Tractors generally have a low volume of engine coolant and so the coolant must be monitored for freeze point if you encounter freezing weather. If your tractor coolant is not freeze protected, just drain it to protect the water jackets from freeze damage.

Also, mind your battery. Batteries are expensive these days. I keep smart chargers on all my batteries and have yet to get less than 10 years from a FLA or SLA automotive battery.

(quoted from post at 20:07:00 12/12/17) I ran about a 30% mix of kerosene once and worked it lightly and the temp bumped the top of the "normal" range on my 245 fairly quickly. Yours shows your water pump and radiator are in good condition. The only time my engine gets really warm is when plowing or mowing hay for hours at a time. In the winter I put a stiff plastic bag between the grill and the front bumper to keep it warm, never gets close to the hot range.

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Can you tell me the reasoning behind running kerosene in the engine? If it is to remove carbon from combustion chambers, there are better alternatives which do not include Sea Foam or Marvel Mystery Oil.

I use a bit of Diesel Kleen in my fuel. Helps cold starts and keeps the fuel system clean, reduces the tendency of the fuel to gel, lubricates injector pump parts and removes water. Older diesel tractor engines realize little benefit from increased Cetane fuel. But keeping things clean and lubricated (current day Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel lacks the lubricating properties of yesterdays diesel fuel) will extend engine life and potentially reduce wear in fuel system components.

No other reason than I had almost two gallons of kero to get rid of ;-)