Turbocharging a 4010

I'm planning on turbocharging our 4010. We recently replaced the engine in one of our 4020s with a combine engine. It had a 4320 (I think, hood wasn't cut to clear turbo. 2 piece manifold and airresearch Garret t04b) turbo kit on it. This particular 4020 is only used as a loader tractor nowdays. Loading the feed wagon and moving bales. So dad decided the new engine didn't need a turbo wearing out the high hour (19k) powershift transmission anymore. Our 4010 has low hours, maybe 4500 or so. It is almost permanently attached to a 15' disc windrower. Dad had the pump turned up a bit. So it does ok but it smokes under load in thick spots. So I figure why not put that fuel to work instead of turning it into smoke? Don't need anything crazy, an extra 10-20hp would go a long ways. I know that the 4010 and 4020 are 90% the same tractor but is there anything I should plan on needing to modify to attach this turbo kit? Currently the 4020 still has the turbo style intake manifold on it, just adapted to work NA with a hose. So I plan to swap that around. The 4010 has an oil bath and 4020 has a dry filter, so I figure I can swap those as well. Does this all sound like a good plan? The other question I had is that the 4010 has a round muffler instead of oval. Not sure if it will line up well even using the 4320 parts. I'd rather not cut a hole, but if it's unavoidable I'll do it and then fill in the gap and make it look like it was meant to be that way. Any thoughts or bits of advice are welcome. Thanks!

I'd leave the factory turbo engine alone. There is a lot more changed inside the engine from the factory. The HP does not factor in if just running around doing loader work since it is not doing any hard work pulling anymore. Compression ratio is one. Engine might become a dog without it ? Another thing is I think 4010 engines originally had a smaller bore ? so it may be original and be better off with a rebuild with the new style upgraded parts. This will give you the HP gains you think are missing.

Start saving now for the transmission/rearend rebuild. Dad bought a '63 4010-D in December '68, had 2000-2500 hours on it. Supposedly it already had the 4020 kit in it, not sure why. Still burned 4-5 quarts of oil per tank of fuel pulling 4-14's, but burned less on light loads. We lightly used it maybe 100 hours a year. blew the head gasket on it after 2-3 years, did a major rebuild with M&W sleeves/pistons on it, set pump to 95 maybe 100 hp. DAD Knocked the PTO out of it mowing weeds with a 6 ft Bush hog, replaced pto and engine clutches, sold it right out of the repair shop to the son of a guy Dad went to high school with. First thing the new owner did was put an M&W turbo on it. Six months later he comes over and asks Dad how much of the new rearend Dad was going to pay for. Guess he never heard the phrase "As Is, Where it Is." A brand new 4020 or 806 diesel would have been WAY cheaper than trying to keep that 4010 running. It needed a new water pump, torsion shaft seals, new batteries every 2 years, I barely made it home from the sale 20 miles without blowing a frt tire, Dad made it less than 5 miles from home to get it tuned-up and blew a frt tire. Screwed around all day getting new frt tires mounted. Had new rears put on a couple weeks later. Had the starter & generator rebuilt and replaced voltage regulator. Oh, and new paint & decals on it before it spent five minutes in the field. Only typical repair we didn't have was the coupling to the frt hyd pump.

Most 4010's have 4020 pistons and liners in them by now,,,and a 4020 will live a good life at 130-140 hp..there are dozens of them running around here that have been working for 35 years or more with Turbo's on them the transmission's will deal with it,,and most of them have 4320 clutches in them''

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Uncle had a 4010, put a turbo could not keep head gaskets in it.

Pete

(quoted from post at 18:40:46 10/18/19) Uncle had a 4010, put a turbo could not keep head gaskets in it.

Pete

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Depends how keen the tinkerer is with the fuel screw . Most engines should not operate continuously above 1200F EGT. Premium alloy valves, seats and power turbine can handle 1350F

I have had several 4020s and 1 4010 w/M&W turbo chargers.Tim S. kit is very nice and will provide more than the 12# boost the RayJay delivers.If you have an 8guart factory pan I would suggest the bigger pan of a 69/72 4020 that holds 12 guarts.If you want to spend some more money the M&W 20 qt. alum. pan along with the fan/shroud,and larger radiator. It usually isn't the turbo charger that causes problem it is the operator.I like 4320s as they were built for the turbo charged engine.I have a personal 71 4020 that has close to 10K hours and had turbo on since day one set at 120H.P.and still has original clutch and has never been touched but it has never been misused still original paint but never sits out and is actually my favorite tractor.

(quoted from post at 18:40:46 10/18/19) Uncle had a 4010, put a turbo could not keep head gaskets in it.

Pete

Click to expand...

Depends how keen the tinkerer is with the fuel screw . Most engines should not operate continuously above 1200F EGT. Premium alloy valves, seats and power turbine can handle 1350F

Some people can screw up a crowbar in a sandbox can?t they

That's some tough luck, but I think you got a Friday tractor and the guys at the factory were rushing to go to the bar that evening. I've never heard of such bad luck with a 4010/4020. This tractor has put hundreds of hours on a disc windrower that most would use a 125-150hp tractor for, also at or near 100hp on the pump. I highly doubt 10-20 more will turn it instantly into a lemon. Dad had his 4630 turned up to 240hp. Even the mechanic told him he was going to blow it up or melt it down. That was 12,000 hours ago and it's still going strong. We just use synthetic oil to keep the turbo from going out, and it has a different fan for more airflow. Almost every tractor we own is turned up some. We were always just taught to not ramrod it and respect the power and our rigs aren't in the shop any more than the neighbors.

Fuel is already turned up. She smokes
when she bogs down. I don't plan to add
any more fuel really. I think it's as
much as you can get with a 4010 pump
anyways without changing the head out. I
just want the turbo to give it more air
and burn the fuel it has. Which should
actually lower the temps.

That's a nice setup you made. Mine is similar but it uses all factory parts except for the exhaust elbow, which is shorter than stock but doesn't sit up higher like that. It isn't even really an elbow, just a piece that accepts the little tube that couples to the turbo, and then there is a flange on the other side. I think I'm near 100hp now and 110-120 would be plenty for my uses. Not planning to go to the pulls, just bog down on the mower less and be able to run in 4th on 1st cutting thick stuff.

It has already had the turbo removed for a couple yeara. You are right. It was a dog at first without it. It was the way the pump was. The combine pump seemed to have a different fuel curve and so it only made power up top. But we already remedied that by switching a tractor pump onto it.

Larger oil pan does sound like a wise future investment. It doesn't overheat any at close to 100, and I think 120 is plenty. But I'll certainly be keeping a close eye on it. I might run 5w40 synthetic to make up for the small oil pan at first. That's what we use in the 4630 that makes close to 240, and it remedied the turbo coking up with burnt oil. This is only going to make half that so it shouldn't be a probelem.

Most good running 4020's will dyno 115hp..the poor ones 100 or a bit less,,you can't really turn the pump up much,,with out changing the head..

240HP from a TI 404cu of that vintage and design sounds like a lot .

Sounds to me like it was built in the case plant