Well finally got right head gasket after 4 tries. Anyway runs like new but have hydraulic fluid leaking under it. Coming from what I call the bell housing and the transmission where they bolt together. What would that be?
 
John,

All the info please so we don't have to go search your old posts to remember your machine. I expect this is the 450 since you mention the head gasket.

What transmission? Collar shift or HLR?
 
Yes.... jim 1969 boxer Dozier straight.not
sure the shift. I have no clue when it
comes to them. Forward neutral reverse in
between your legs and a lever to the left
if your sitting in seat. And I think the
lever between your feet is to engage the
pto for winch.I had to bypass the hydraulic
lines to them cause someone took the valve
body to the winch.
cvphoto34088.jpg
 
You have an HLR transmission. The shift lever on the floor between your legs controls the hydraulic clutches in the HLR, the lever by the left armrest is the 1-4 gears in the transmission.

It won't be hydraulic oil coming from inside the clutch housing. The hydraulic system is the reservoir under the right side armrest and the pump is engine driven from the front of the crankshaft; totally separate from the transmission.

It will be transmission oil coming from inside the clutch housing. The reservoir for the transmission is the transmission case. Some possible leaks: Transmission drive (input) shaft seal, leak from the HLR pump, there may be a seal on the pto control rod, there is a plug in front of the lower shaft.

You have to pull the engine to get in there to check and repair any of those.

It is time (actually past time) to get yourself the service and operator's manuals. Service manual is John Deere publication SM2064. Operator's manual is john Deere publication OMT32592.
 
Thanks Jim. So I just can pull the motor
and replace what's leaking and wont have to
pull transmission out? I'll buy a manual
tonight. I see there not cheap endless I
get one over seas. Then takes a month to
get it lol
 
Yes, manuals are expensive but they can save way more than their cost. Had you had one in the beginning you likely would have done a number of things differently. I would recommend you get a used one from eBay or similar place, not a CD from overseas. Be sure the service manual is number SM2064. A dirty, dogeared OEM Manual is way better than some of the manuals out there which may not even be for the right model regardless of how they advertise the manual.

Some reprints are ok, some are poor quality, the photos in particular. I have heard some were not happy with Jensales reprint quality of late, and some of their reprints are I&T manuals not a reprint of the OEM manual.

If it is just a seal issue you likely won't have to open the transmission, but I can't say what is causing the leak. It might be just a seal wore out, it might be a bad bearing or shaft surface that caused the seal to fail, just like anytime a seal fails.
 
Was just under the dozer. There is a deep
hole in. Ottom or transmission that the
fluid is coming from. Noe if the tranny was
empty would that make it so it wont steer?
 
Do you mean a hole as in a broken transmission case? If you can, you should post a picture of what you are talking about.

Straight 450s were dry steering clutches and brakes. They did not have power (assist) steering either. So transmission oil won't keep them from steering unless it has filled the clutch compartments and the clutches and brakes are slipping. It is more likely the steering clutches are stuck from setting.
 
Best pic I could get. Right in front of
tranny drain plug there is a small round
hole.i Factory hole where the fluid comes
from.i put a piece of wood in hole. Also if
there stuck. Will they come free if I drive
back n forth?
cvphoto34172.jpg


cvphoto34173.jpg


cvphoto34174.jpg
 
That round hole should be the weep hole for the clutch housing. Originally there would have been a cotter pin, free to move around, in that hole to keep it open. That hole is supposed to let any oil that leaks into that compartment out before it contaminates the engine clutch. Don't keep it plugged.

The steering clutches may break free if you pull and hold back on the levers while pushing into a stump or rock that won't move. Sometimes it takes bumping into the stump/rock, with the levers held back, to shock the clutches free. Sometimes they won't break free. If they don't break free you have to do a teardown.
If they have swollen, not stuck, its a teardown. If you have to tear it down you will likely need new steering clutch parts. Not cheap.

There is no such thing as an inexpensive crawler.
 

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