Removing "A" pistons!

So here I am - involved with the removal of the pistons and eventually crankshaft from my "A". Its all my fault for not paying attention to the oil I put into this tractor after presumably draining all the old stuff out. I can look back not and see the total error of my ways!
I have a 1952 "A" and all I did was start it up to move it when the funny noise started and then the engine just seized. The #1 rod cap sort of welded itself to the crank shaft -due to no oil getting to it. The start of the problem was when I first got it running and tried to evacuate all the old oil. Did not go far enough to get all that inch thick sludge out of the crankcase.

So now here I am. I would love to have a serious chat with the original designers of the JD crank case. If they had only made it 1/2 inch longer then I would be able to remove the pistons from the top cover access, I would not have to pull the head to do it -along with draining all the antifreeze, installing new head gaskets, valve cover gaskets -etc!!!

Well -Lesson learned and now I am taking my time to remove all the good things I accomplished!!! I had a total of about 2 hours of running time after I got it running before the incident happened. Luckily I have a parts "A" standing by with a good crank AND real bearing inserts! All of which will be removed and installed in my 52! In time!

There is about a 1/2 inch of old black goo sprinkled with bits and pieces of babbit on the bottom of the crankcase!
One word ----- PATIENCE!

Not sure about the A but I have done it on a 50 G I would think it could be done on an A. It takes alot of patience as you can only get one hand in the access cover to work. I changed the rods from
babbit style to the new insert rods.

and just how how would you compress the rings going back in to the tractor if you had filled the crankcase to the correct level that would not have happened.An in of mud in the bottom will not block the oil from getting into the pump

The only rings you need to pull out of the cylinder are the oil rings at the bottom of the piston, I compressed mine with a hose clamp and they went right in then pull the clamp off.

How were you planning on putting back together ?? I guess if it were me I'd be making sure the
square drive coupler isn't broke on the oil pump drive. From the sounds of this thing you needed
to remove the head, do the valves, it's only alittle more work & you'll know what you have when
it's back together.

Well if you don't want to pull the head you can split the tractor at the frame and block. I have done a few of those A's this way because all I had to do was to put a NEW gasket in for the block to main case where they like to leak. I made a support stand to bolt on the front frame to hold it up. Unhook the fanshaft,block, frame,connecting rods and some wiring. Block the hood up (or tie it to the rafters) and unhook steering shaft and roll it apart from the back while supporting the main case on a floor jack. More than one way to skin a cat so to speak.

I am consoling my self to that fact that I must take it apart -again! Well I am not looking to get a set of seals and gaskets -Any recommendations of them??
As for the pistons and rods -I will see about replacing them with the set from my parts "A". Hopefully the bores are not too far out with wear. I can put the original piston on the parts rod and put everything back together!

Ebay has FS7744SBX Full Gasket set & free shipping Fits Serial # 584000 & UP For $86.00.1952 A starts at 682602 I just bought 3 sets for unstyled "A" within the last 6 mo. for $105.00 plus shipping. They even had the first reduction gaskets. Just go to ebay type in FS 7744SBX Felpro Gaskets. Listed under All category