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NAA Vane prime ?

T

Two0aks

Member
Lots of posts here on vane pumps and priming and it seems the consensus is pressurize through dip stick while running engine.

Is there any other method such as pressurizing while cranking only ?

Reservoir has been empty, tubes clean and empty and vane pump on the shelf wrapped up for several years. Just recently reinstalled pump and tubes and can put oil in anytime, so the reason for asking.

The Cover plate has not been off the lift cover and I'm wondering what or where the top pipe plug in it leads to ?

So back to the question if any way to prime Vane pump without running the engine ?
 
I'm not sure from your post what you're trying to accomplish. Is there a reason that you can't start the engine? If the engine won't start, what's the point in priming the pump until you get the problem with the engine sorted out?

Since you say the pump is dry, are you looking to lubricate the pump before actually starting the engine as a precaution? If so, I would remove the pump from the engine, hold it upside down and pour a little bit of fluid into the intake and turn the pump by hand, but I'm not sure that you need to go through that. Brand new replacement pumps are installed dry all of the time.
 
Thanks Sean in PA

Engine has been completely renewed at machine shop, except for rocker assy and water pump. Break in oil installed.

One of these days soon I plan to first time start it before installing hood and fenders. I may even do it without coolant just to see if it will pop. 12 years now on this project.

All new UTF diff,trans, but not yet in Hyd Resv. For tubes I used Danco O-Rings, same specs as #114 & #212. Wore Out posted Fiat numbers for #114 & #212 which are .010 and .014 different respectively.

I was just wondering if there was a way other than running eng. to see if hydraulics work. Top cover new piston and o-rings. All adjustments according to FO19
mvphoto106375.jpg
 
No way to test whether hydraulics actually work without turning the engine at normal operating speeds, and you couldn't get the engine to spin the pump fast enough for long enough with just the starter without burning out the starter. Maybe you could pull the tractor while in gear with the spark plugs out to keep the compression low so the engine spins easier, but that's about the only way I can think of. At that point you will want oil in the engine, as you don't want to spin that for an extended period while dry.
 
There is one other method to priming the pump but I have had no success doing that. The book mentions pointing the tractor down hill, in your case raising the rear end as high as you can. Obviously you would need oil in the sump and you would still need to run the engine.
 
I had a NAA but never knew there was a way to prime a vane pump. I do know
the vane pump was discontinued years ago because of problems with them as
the vanes would wear and not make pressure. Had to change ours to newer
style back about 80 because parts were not avaible.
 
Actually did not make it far enough to change pump as Fort tractor dealer could not be sure the new style [ump would even lift cultovater so just changed tractor to a 4000
 
Thanks
Thanks all for you comments. You guys are super and a wealth of knowledge.

I'll be putting oil in the Hyd. Resv. soon and throw some gas in and see if it will start.

It's been a long twelve year journey so far and I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel.

As for the pump... Edit. I just discovered the TOH Windy Ridge farm is not taking any orders due to illness. That was plan B.

I didn't want to convert to Piston pump, but may have to bite that bullet too. Oh well!

Thanks again for all your comments.
Bill
 
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