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6610 Hydraulic Pump

H

Hurst

Member
Good morning, I have 2 Questions on my mind this morning:

1) Has anyone used an aftermarket "economy" pump instead of the OEM Dynamatic pump? If so, did everything work alright or anything I need
to watch out for? I was looking at ordering one from All State Ag Parts who I've had good luck with aftermarket parts from in the past.
The tractor doesn't get used much anymore (about 2-300 hrs/yr) and money is a bit tight right now, so if it will last 10-15 years, I'd be
more than happy. We have an aftermarket pump on our 7610, but it's about 10 yrs old, so I'm not sure if things have changed.

2) The tractor stripped the splines on the shaft between the 2 sections inside the pump and it looked like the supply tube was getting
loose. Is there anything else I need to look at on this tractor, such as the PTO control valve's pressure regulator, or would this be
normal wear and tear for the original 1991 pump on a tractor that is likely nearing 10k hrs? Dual Power and PTO worked just fine before it
went out, and it didn't go out while I was shifting either one, just during some driveline chatter while making a turn.

Hurst
 
I haven't had any problems with aftermarket pumps as such... however one thing I've found in the power steering pumps is slight differences in shaft size, etc. such that the OEM seal kits will not work in them. That's not really a factor in a main system pump, at least in my mind... so I'd probably go with the cheaper one provided I could get it quickly enough.
I wouldn't worry too much about the regulating valve, but I would pressure test the system once the new pump is installed. Make sure it's got 150 psi with warm oil at a fast idle. I generally find that the pressure regulating valves are lower than the 160-180 psi that is spec'd... but they seem to work fine at that level.
Also pay close attention to the o-ring and circlip on the tube where it enters the regulating valve. I've found that some leak there when using the 'correct' o-ring. I've had to cut/glue a fatter profile, small diameter ring for my 7710 to stop a leak at that joint.

Rod
 
Sounds good, I'll go ahead and order the parts. I'm fixing a few things at once while it's in the shop, so waiting 3 or 4 days for the pump isn't going to cost me any more time than waiting for my local Ford guru to get the NH parts (gaskets, sealing washers, o-rings, etc). The last PTO supply tube I did a few years ago with the updated clip and OEM o-ring fit really snug, hopefully this one will be the same. It calls for a -112 o ring which I have plenty of, but it also specs 90 duro, and mine are all 70 duro, I'm guessing it's probably not worth the risk to use my stock of softer o-rings.

Can I just leave the Dual Power feed elbow off when I first hook up the pump and put my pressure gauge on that port to check pressure, and then if all looks well, hook up my Dual Power line?

Hurst
 
I don't know about the aftermarket pumps but the Sauer danfoss pumps come with a 1/8" NPT port in the low pressure manifold so you can just tap in there and check the pressure. Otherwise, you would need to tee into the DP supply line.
If you leave the elbow off, you can check the regulating pressure... and check for leaks in the PTO clutch circuit... but you won't be able to check the MFWD clutch or DP circuits for leaks.

Rod
 
I'll check the new pump when it comes in. I saw the plug on the old pump. Thank you for all of the help. Hopefully it goes back together smoothly and all is well for the rest of the hay season!

Hurst
 
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