Ford 4000 will not roll

Hi. I can't get it to roll to load onto trailer. I am trying to position for transport a Ford 4000, 4 cyl, gas, select 0 speed, circa '62-'64(I believe, but not certain). I need to move it to purchase. I have located the 'driveline disengage' mechanism on the left side of the trans. Removed the 'z' bracket - turned tab clockwise and tried, and counter-clockwise and again tried. I have tried rocking the 4000 back and forth to perhaps free something internally. Is there something else needed to allow it be pulled or roll?? It hasn't been operated for several years. Currently searching for correct owners and service manual. Any ideas or guidance will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 
IF you have correctly flipped the traction disconnect, then you have to look at other reasons a tractor, any tractor might not roll.

brakes down, or locked down?

was this tractor the victim of some catastrophic rear end hiccup that might have left seized and shattered pars int he rear?

rear end full of water and rear axle and bearings just one giant lump of rust?

Lastly... have you REALLY got the traction disconnect moved and has the sliding coupler actually moved to let pinion be free?
 
It appears that the traction disconnect has not been disconnected.

Does the traction disconnect bolt turn freely? If so, the arm is not properly positioned in the collar. Not uncommon if engagement/disengagement is attempted by one without experience.

Remove the inspection cover and inspect.

Dean
 
With the 'z' bracket removed the mechanism turns to the right and left freely. Maybe too freely. I don't yet have a service manual, but if I can get permission from the seller I may try to muster the courage to remove the plate around the disconnect to investigate further. I don't live near the tractor so hopefully, I can anticipate what tools would be needed. Otherwise, the seller is confident that tractor should move. Thanks for your input.
 
When I first got my 4000 select-o-speed the traction disconnect was not in the sliding collar so I had to remove the side cover and re position it. It's always best to jack up one wheel when moving the disconnect lever to remove pressure when disengaging or to align the splines when connecting.

Mark
 
you should need only a 5/8 and 11/16 sockets or wrenches to remove the seat and top cover plate. then you will have access to view and move the disengage parts at will.
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:48 02/27/17) you should need only a 5/8 and 11/16 sockets or wrenches to remove the seat and top cover plate. then you will have access to view and move the disengage parts at will.

He has a 4000 select-o-speed transmission. That's not how you do it with those. Simply removing the inspection plate that has the disengage lever and dipstick on it will allow access to the transmission to pinion sleeve.
 
(quoted from post at 21:36:48 02/27/17) you should need only a 5/8 and 11/16 sockets or wrenches to remove the seat and top cover plate. then you will have access to view and move the disengage parts at will.

Yep! What fredstev said. No need to go to all the work of removing the seat and deck to access the traction disconnect.
 
That must be a 2-wheel drive then. my 4000 with Select-o-Shift has 4-wheel drive so the inspection plate is replaced with the transfer chain-drive for the front drive shaft. The top plate is much easier to remove on this unit for access to the disengage mechanism.
 
(quoted from post at 21:18:16 03/07/17) That must be a 2-wheel drive then. my 4000 with Select-o-Shift has 4-wheel drive so the inspection plate is replaced with the transfer chain-drive for the front drive shaft. The top plate is much easier to remove on this unit for access to the disengage mechanism.

Yours is an anomaly. You should not endeavor to give advice about a normal Select-O-[b:e69f2044e8][color=red:e69f2044e8]Speed[/color:e69f2044e8][/b:e69f2044e8] based on something that's that different.
 

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