To-35 Ignition Switch Wiring with Alternator

I have a TO35 Deluxe so far as I can see. I have a Key switch and a push button starter switch.

Whoever had this before stripped the wires so I don't really know where things are supposed to go.

The key is a 'two pronged' key and it seems to have 4 positions, OFF, 1,2, 3 going clockwise. There are three terminals on the back labeled BATT, L, and I.

L only has continuity with BATT when it is in position 2 and 3.
I only has continuity with BATT when it is in position 1 and 2.

I don't understand what the terminals are supposed to work and why.

I have an AMMETER.
 

Seems this is standard Off, Ignition/On, Ignition/ON + Lights, and Lights Only

But, I don't know how to wire in my ammeter, starter, push button starter, neutral safety switch, etc.
 
The wiring is basic and simple, so don't let it intimidate you. We'll go through this one circuit at a time.

A question though, does this have a generator or alternator?

And if an alternator what brand, probably a Delco 10SI? And is it a "one wire" or "3 wire"?

Sounds like you have figured out the ignition switch.

A tip, before you start take the dash assembly off. Carefully disconnect the water temp probe from the head to get enough slack. Disconnect the oil pressure line through the big hole behind it. Take the steering wheel off. That way you can lay the dash upside down to do the wiring. Much easier than working upside down! Be sure to make the harness long enough to get the dash on and off over the steering shaft.

The wiring will all be 16ga except the alternator or generator A wire and the BAT wire to the regulator, wire which will be 10ga. Use low voltage automotive wire, not house wire, and for sure not solid wire. Get an assortment of colors, one for each circuit, probably about 5 will do. The wire can be bought at the auto supply. They also have black plastic wire loom cover. Makes for a pro looking job. I like to solder and shrink wrap all connections, but that is optional. If you can find some rubber insulated steel straps, they will come in handy for securing the harness, HD will have them. Do not waste your time with plastic straps or ties, they will fail.

The time you spend getting this right will pay off in the end. Be careful where you route the wires, don't want them getting snagged, pinched or burned. Keep it simple but no short cuts.
 

OK. Thanks! It is an alternator. It is aftermarket from this site, and it is a ONE wire alternator with tach drive, internally regulated. I have removed my original voltage regulator and have all wires 'loose'. I'm going to be honest...I'm not sure I can get the steering wheel off, it's pretty rusty. I MIGHT have to fight this from the underside, which I think I can manage. I am ready to go with solder and shrink wrap.
 
OK, here we go!

You can probably do this working from underneath, but I would still leave a long enough loop in the harness to get the dash off over the steering shaft. Sooner or later you will be needing to access the steering gear to stop leaks or make repairs.

The amp meter:

This is where all the power feeds through from the battery. Coming off the big post on the battery side of the starter solenoid, the same post the battery cable is connected to, run a #10 wire to one side of the amp meter. It would be a good idea to solder in a 40 amp fuse link in this wire. That is the only wire allowed on that side of the amp meter. All other wires come off the other side. No way to tell which terminal on the amp meter to use until you get done and try it. If it reads backward, simply switch sides with the wires.

From the other side of the amp meter, run a #10 wire to the output stud of the alternator.

From that same amp meter terminal, run a 16 ga wire to the BAT terminal of the ignition switch. You may want to install a 15 amp fuse in this wire. I would use a spade type fuse with a covered holder. Much better connection than he spring loaded inline fuse holders.

The ignition switch:

From the IGN terminal, run a 16ga to the ignition coil. If this was originally 12v, and using the same coil, we can assume it has the correct coil, and no other mods needed. If this was a 6 volt, you will need to add a 1 1/2 ohm resistor between the switch and the coil, or replace the coil with a true 12v coil. NAPA IC14SB

From the same IGN terminal of the ignition switch, run a 16ga to one side of the start switch.

From the LIGHT terminal of the ignition switch power the lights with a 16 ga wire.

Start switch:

You already have one side of the start switch powered from the ignition switch. From the other terminal of the start switch run a 16ga to the neutral switch located on top of the transmission housing. The switch uses special "bullet" connectors. If you can't save the original ones, they can be found usually in terminal assortments or the bagged terminals at the auto supply.

Neutral switch:

From the other terminal of the neutral switch, run a 16 ga to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. If there is a "R" terminal on the solenoid it will not be used. Be sure the solenoid is secured tightly to the mount bracket, it grounds through the base.

That's about it... The old regulator and all it's wiring can be removed, preferably before starting on the new wiring. On the lights, you may want to run a ground wire to each light. Trying to get them to ground through the sheet metal doesn't work well.

If you get lost, feel free to ask. Be careful looking at wiring diagrams online. I was going to post some but every one was either wrong or had something different about it than your application.

One of the natural tendencies of the "one wire" alternators is the need to bring the RPM up to a fairly high level in order to initiate charging each time it is started. This is especially true if you used the large pulley from the generator. Being it has the tach drive you will need to keep the same large pulley to get an accurate tach reading. But once it reaches the needed RPM to initiate the charge, it will continue to charge at lower RPM.

Let us know how it goes!
 

She's all wired up and seems to be working fine electrically. Now, the new alternator was purchased from this site. My ammeter when the tractor is running at max speed is absolutely BURIED to the right. That is the +30 side. I'm glad to see it seems to be working, but I am a bit concerned as, frankly, I've never seen a tractor ammeter work and this seems extreme. The Alternator is internally regulated. It does sit more toward the middle when it's idling.

Is this normal?
 

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