To30 timing

I pulled a to30 home from a brush pile that was given to me

New wiring new battery new starter new cap rotor plugs regulator rebuilt tsx361 cylinder head rebuilt new valves springs retainers and lashcaps new head gasket new points and condensers oil was black no water took the pan off looks good top and bottom no cracks here s the thing, won t run

After installing the new cyl head I set the rocker assy on the old rods and started at the lash. Tractor inhales at exhaust.. somethings not right. Distributor gear looks good cam gear half shaft looks good through the hole just can t find time. The crank gear has one mark factory. The governor gear the big one has two dots that line up with it. I marked it where I found tdc on number one compression stroke both valves shut and number four closing exhaust opening intake. The concern is where I marked it is 180 degrees from the factory mark. Well the pushrods don t lie so to speak but why was the factory time mark 180 from where the cam put my compression stroke?






Mine is top left factory is lined up in the photo, but at those marks the cam doesn t have my lifters calling for tdc

Any ideas???

Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but are you turning the engine clock wise?

I dislike asking a question on here and getting no replies. So I try to answer when I can.

But nothing is coming to my mind at the moment. I haven't had mine open for a bit. And I'm no expert in this area anyway.

Do you have a manual? I'm assuming you do from what you list having done. If not they are (or have been) available online.

But reading my manual doesn't give me an obvious indication of the problem.

Was it a "ran when parked" tractor? If so, when you pulled the timing cover off where were the two gears in relation to each other before you did anything?

The mark on the crank gear doesn't look factory.

Possibly the factory mark is out of the picture or the gear is on backward?

With the crank in the #1 and #4 at TDC, the crank mark should be in line with the center of the cam (draw an imaginary line from the center of the crank to the center of the cam, the crank mark should be on that line).

Then the 2 factory marks on the cam gear should straddle the crank gear mark.

If you want to see a TDC mark, there is a hole below the starter, may have a thin steel plug presed into the hole, pop it out, turn the crank to near #1-#4 TDC. Look in the hole there should be some numbered marks, TDC will be marked "DC". Probably be difficult to see, but should be there.

Get the crank at TDC, align the 2 factory cam marks with the crank marks (or centerline if no marks).

Then turn it through, should see the #1 or #4 valves in overlap, which will put the other matching cylinder in firing position.

Yessir

No dumb questions

Turn the crank one turn I'll bet the they line up. Some timing marks are set up for the companion cylinder

Hello everyone thanks for your replies!

With the number 1 piston at tdc on compression stroke 4 is on the rock and the crank mark is lined up with my mark, go 180 from that and you ll find all three factory marks lined up but the cam is calling for number 1 cyl to be on the rock and it s running mate 4 to be at tdc on compression

This is how I found them when I took the cover off I ve done nothing to the crank or cam

The tractor was found by my old neighbor on land he bought and he said it s yours if you want it. It had no front wheels or tires gauges a seat and belt gone. Dad has a 53 naa I was always tinkering with so I m partial to them.
I ve only come this far out of confidence as I was impressed it had good black oil in the case no peanut butter and everything looks great internally the block and under the head has no cracks.. I ve sourced a seat front wheels and tires and wired it up I m pretty close. It was nose down in dirt under weeds with trees growing nearly through it. Only suspicion I have is that the cam is flat where the previous owner had put an intake style lash cap on the old exhaust valve end probably two or three were like this, but why??? The valves springs retainers caps and seats are new with having been done at my local engine shop.

Can t speak for the cam.. I suppose I ll check the lift on the rods does anyone know the cam specs ?? If I find them first I ll share, thanks again keep the ideas flowing

Your valve timing sounds correct to me.

You can turn it through and watch each rocker move. A flat cam lobe will be easy enough to see that it's not moving as far as the others.

A compression test might be in order. Could be a seat has fallen out, a bent valve. Run your lash adjustment again. I like to pull the plugs, turn the engine completely through while feeling for the loosest point in the rotation.

A good test of the valve train is to hold your hand tightly over the carb, crank the engine through. You should get a strong steady vacuum.

If it's blowing back out the carb could be the exhaust is plugged with acorns.

There is only a manifold at this point and I ll verify but I believe it to be clean, valve train is new..

What are the four rubber round tube looking gaskets that come in a head gasket set