706. No Steering

Working on a tractor that has been setting a while. So was leaking
out of the MCV. Took apart to put gaskets and o rings in there.
Have it back together but no steering. Have assist on the brakes, TA
works. Hydraulics work. So right now I have the valve off the clutch
housing and going to have a look in there. This is maybe called a
pilot valve? Cranking the tractor over with this valve off, have lots of
oil out of the rear port to this valve. I-T manual doesnt really tell me
how this valve works. Know it probably has to shift the spool back
and forth as you steer. Loosen the line coming from the hand
steering pump when things were together, and engine running, only
got a little oil and bubbles., from the fitting. Any thing Im missing?
Thanks for your help or if you could explain the hydraulics on how
this works?

Did you have the steering relieve valve out of MCV. Installed new oring on it?? What about oring that goes into the steering port on the casting before installing the MCV. Is sump check in place with spring before installing the MCV.?? Usually don't see any problems with that pilot valve. Good luck

Replying to my own question as I may have found the answer, maybe it will help someone else in their troubleshooting??
I took the end caps off the pilot valve and found the spool stuck! Had to tap it out with a hammer. A thin layer of gunk and rust had set in from the milky hydraulic oil. So cleaned everything up and now the spool is silky smooth. Tommorow well give it a try. Conclusion is a lot of the problems Im fixing on this tractor could have been prevented if it was shedded

While there you might just as well replace those 2 o-rings on the caps. change the filter if you have not done that before adding that extra 5 gallon over full. I would also just drain the oil if milky looking and heat to evaporate the water out of it. To check just use an egg beater if it stays looking like the oil should just pour it back in and run again this will help with getting the water laden oil out of the system. When you have that done you can change the filter and put in new oil if you want. With the price of oil.This makes an economical way to get the most of the water out then after fixed go work it for a few days to work the rest of the system flushed and change oil again after a week or so to keep the residual moisture from freezing and stopping things from flowing. If you have steering but hard it is air and you need to just with the oil level full or 5 gallon over full (the remedy for a tube sucking air in the transmission)Start tractor and work steering wheel till it expels the air. IF you want it to bleed fast take the valve out of the rear side of the MCV with somebody setting in the seat start and shutoff as soon as you get your bath of oil then put valve back in. It will now probably steer. I have also used an air hose and rag in the dipstick hole to push oil into prime it. If you do use the air method hold the rag over the hole for an instant. Till things settle down or get an oil bath from the geyser coming out the hole.

Caterpillar guy: out of curiosity what is the best and or easiest way to heat the oil to burn out the water? Thanks Lee

use one or more dip stick heaters in a steel container (where it is warm already) use timers and check it often. Jim

I think Jim left a zero off in his suggestion. The dipstick heaters I looked up show 90 watts, so if you had 10 of them in a 5 gallon bucket you might start getting close to generating enough heat to get the water out of the oil in a timely manner, I am talking somewhere around a couple weeks for 5 gallons. I have never done it but I would use a turkey fryer burner and put a steel 5 gallon bucket on it. Get the oil up to 180 degrees and hold it at that temp 2 - 3 hours. If you had an old wood cook stove you could set up outside that would be a more economical approach. Beware of the possible fire hazards of doing this by either suggestion I have made. Really no different than having an equivalent amount of hot cooking oil.