1950 Farmall H Hydraulics

dwb-ne · May 20, 2022

I have a 1950 H with a belly pump and aftermarket 3 point hitch with a single cylinder. I've been running this setup for 20 years. I attached my bush hog last week and noticed it barely lifts it off the ground. Time for a rebuild/replace of the belly pump? Any ideas? Will the hydraulic pump listed in the parts section of this site fit this tractor? Says Fits H with F-300 front inner/outer timing cover

Fits H (with F-300 front inner/outer timing cover), Super H, Super W4, 300, 350. 10 GPM @ 1600 RPM, 1200 PSI; dimensions: 3 7/8 inch flange to flange ** Mounting holes 2 5/8 inch center to center lower and 3 1/2 inch center to center upper holes. Replaces: 128191C91, 355515R92, 355515R95, 363779R91, 363779R92, 363779R94. Reference ID: 128191C91

used red MN · May 20, 2022

I assume you checked that it has fluid at the proper level in it? About 9 inches down from the top of the pipe nipple the ..bakers hat.. fill cap screws on if your dip stick has been lost. No those pumps will not directly fit your tractor. But as it says installing the later model Super H, 300 and 350 timing cover and front engine plate will allow it to fit. But, the original cam gear is not robust enough so if it is not replaced with an updated one the teeth will strip off in fairly short order.

Edit to add: Sorry if this is obvious, the pump you asked about above are for ..live hydraulics.. that are driven by the engine and set in front of the distributor. Just adding this because to some folks hydraulics are very ..Greek..

This post was edited by used red MN on 05/20/2022 at 09:04 am.

dwb-ne · May 20, 2022

ok, thats kinda what I figured. Yes the fluid is at the proper level (I do still have the dip stick) Can a guy buy a remanufactured belly pump or a rebuild kit?

D Slater · May 20, 2022

In 1950 the bolt pattern was changed so that pump will bolt up on part of the year models. Tractor serial number 344864 and higher has the same bolt pattern as the pumps. If pump has the hour meter snout on shaft it may need some removed or the screen inside front cover removed to clear snout, for use on a 50 H cover above serial 344864. Need a relief valve or control valve with a relief to use. Run a 50 H with pump on cover for years with original timing gears with relief set a 1000 PSI. May want to check engine serial number in case it's not the original engine. Supposed to be same as tractor.

used red MN · May 20, 2022

Looks like ..Father.. I mean Slater.. knows best. Thanks
..D..!

Janicholson · May 20, 2022

If the tractor hydraulics are not being used on equipment through hoses, try dry draining the existing oil, and replacing it with 15-40 diesel grade engine oil. The viscosity will be far more stable than the originally specified non detergent 30 wt (or 20 wt) oil. Jim

Dave41A · May 20, 2022

Are you running one-way (hydraulics up, gravity down) or two-way (power both ways) hydraulics on the hitch?

fastfarmall · May 20, 2022

Drop it out of the H,and take the front cover off, if it's had non detergent oil in it all these years it will have a inch of sludge in the bottom, but the good thing is the suction tube is off the bottom 1 1/2 inches, so you should be good there! after it's clean set the by-pass up a bit, Jim and others will know how much, and you should be good to go,i got a old M with a Lift all, with new HY-Tran in it,and still has 1200 cold, easy! But it will be a two man job to reinstall it and get the dog lined up and a floor jack to balance it on, will help.

riverbend · May 20, 2022

What kind of pressure is your pump making ? The belly pump on my '40 H running some sort of tractor hydraulic fluid still works fine. Could be the seals in your cylinder shot...

used red MN · May 22, 2022

Just FYI, if you can get it to raise to any position at all and you say it does get off the ground but barely, if it holds it at that position when the lever or rod is moved to the center position there is no problem with your cylinder seals. One exception to this would be a large gouge in the cylinder tube that does not run the whole length.

dwb-ne · May 22, 2022

it does hold it's position. It just doesn't go up as high as it use to.

dwb-ne · May 22, 2022

It is set up as 1 way. power up gravity down.

dwb-ne · May 22, 2022

Thanks - I think i will start by changing the 30 wt to 15-40 diesel and see what happens before I drop the belly pump.

Fritz Maurer · May 22, 2022

If the vent on the non-pressurized end of the cylinder is plugged, or youre running a solid plug, any oil in there will create a hydraulic lock. Over time, oil can bypass the
piston and just stay there. Or possibly failing piston seal put a lot in there suddenly. Remove your vent or plug and see if it goes all the way up.

charlieu · May 22, 2022

(quoted from post at 14:43:35 05/22/22) Thanks - I think i will start by changing the 30 wt to 15-40 diesel and see what happens before I drop the belly pump.

Why would you switch to 15W40 when 30W is the thicker oil?

J.Wondergem · May 22, 2022

It isn't if there both hot.

Dave41A · May 22, 2022

OK, if there is no load on it, does it go all the way up then? Is the lift spongy at all? In other words, is there any bounce to the lift arms if you press down on them?

Dave41A · May 22, 2022

I also wanted to ask if the engine bogged down when the lift reached its highest point.

dwb-ne · May 23, 2022

Yes I can hear the engine bog down when it reaches the highest point

dwb-ne · May 23, 2022

I never thought that might be the problem. Makes sense. I will try that and report back. Thanks!

Dave41A · May 23, 2022

If it's bogging down, then I do not think it is a pump rebuild problem. I think Fritz Mauer is right about the hydraulic lock. It's an easy check: remove the breather plug and try again. Be careful as oil that seeped past the piston may come squirting out. Post back with what you find.

Janicholson · May 23, 2022

30 wt is not thicker. 15-40 stays more fluid at zero degrees, and remains 40 wt at engine operating temps. 30 WT changes wt across operating
temps it is an obsolete oil for most uses. Jim

dwb-ne · May 24, 2022

it goes up the same height load or no load. The lift is not spongy.

BarnyardEngineering · May 24, 2022

(quoted from post at 07:05:38 05/24/22) it goes up the same height load or no load. The lift is not spongy.

Sounds like a mechanical problem to me. Something broken, binding or catching.

If pressure were your problem removing the load should allow the 3pt to raise fully.

dwb-ne · May 27, 2022

My cylinder has a plug. With the cylinder down I took the plug out. As I unscrewed the plug a lot of air came out. I unscrewed slowly. Once completely out I raised the cylinder all the way up. Some oil came out. The 3 point came up all the way like it is suppose to. I put the plug back in with the cylinder all the way up. I raised and lowered several time and it worked great. I BIG thank you for bringing this to my attention. I haven't tried a load on the 3 point yet. Is putting the plug in with the cylinder all the way up the correct way? Should I keep the plug tight or leave a little loose to let air escape?

Dave41A · May 27, 2022

I don't know if there is a wrong way to put in a plug in one-way hydraulics. I do suggest a breather plug. Take the plug you have to a hydraulic or farm supply store and get a breather plug of the matching size. Should run you $10-$15 or so. You do need something in that hole as dirt in there is bad, and the breather plug lets the air in and out while blocking dirt.

Glad to read you figured this out.

1950 Farmall H Hydraulics

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