15W-40 Synthetic with Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer on

Raner

Member
Hi all, I've been thinking of using Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 Synthetic & Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer on my 1949 IH H, But I'm still in the middle of the fence on doing it. I've been doing some online searching and got no where it's around 50/50 on do it and don't do it.
So I figured this would be the best place to check since you all have old tractors.
I found this old post here:
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=408643
So let's see what you all think, Do it or Don't do it...Thanks...
 
I have a 94 Chevy k2500 with a
Detroit 6.5td with over 250k miles
on it it makes a bit of extra
noise. I started adding the Lucas
oil treatment and almost right away
noticed a significant reduction in
engine noise, more so at higher
rpm. It does a great job of keeping
the oil up high in the engine as
well. I have to let the truck sit
for hours before I can read the oil
dipstick accurately. Oil doesn't do
anything for an engine sitting in
the bottom of the pan, as long as
you have enough oil volume to not
cavitate the oil pump you want that
oil up top working for you. That's
my two cents on the Lucas oil
treatment. As for running synthetic
oil, as long as you have more than
500 hrs on an engine after rebuild,
or if the machine sat for a long
time as the rings need time to
reseat, or you don't have worn out
rings and bad compression run
synthetic oil.
 
This get beat to death about every month. Just put a good oil in it and it will out live all of us, Forget the snake oil and patent medicine
 
Do you do heavy field tillage 10 - 12 hours per day or heavy PTO work?
Do you have new engine seals?

If yes and yes, then maybe.
 
A friend of mine used lucas in his truck, I did not. We both had 2005 Chevy 3500s with the 6.0L. We both drove them about the same mileage per year and with basically
equal loads. At about 250,000 he lost a camshaft. I sold mine at 321,000 and never had an issue internally with my engine. We were both very strict with oil changes. Bad
luck or lucas, who knows?
 
WHY ???????? they have run now HOW MANY YEARS on reg. old oil that costs a lot less then the synthetic , then ya want to dump more money into snake oil to help . When and old fashioned straight 30 or 40 weight oil will probable run it longer then your going to be alive . My super M T/A that i have owned since 1990 lives on a diet of 30 weight Low ash I H oil , My super H lives on a diet of OH guess what 30 weight LOW ASH , My 806 D the RAG lives on a diet of 30 weight #1 Diesel Oil and had over 10000 Hrs of run time on it and the only thing i have done to it is adjust the valves ONE TIME , My Buddy's 1066 that he has had now for over 30 years that does all the heavy work and gets the bag run off it and is pushen well over 200 Hp runs on #1 Diesel engine oil and has around a total of 5000-6000 Hrs and we have never been in the engine YET . I personally am not a fan of synthetics even though the War Dept's brand new Jeep Cherokee use it , but for the next 100000 miles it is NOT MY PROBLEM and if it takes a dump then that is there problem.
 
Rotella T4 15W-40 is as good as you need. No need for any additives, or synthetic oils. It could be
worse, you could have looked in an operators manual printed in 1939 saying used 30 weight non-detergent
oil and sludge up your engine. Rotella is dual rated as both a gasoline engine oil and a diesel engine
oil, it has a great detergent package and after about two oil changes you will have very little sludge
left in your engine. Just keep track of how BLACK your oil gets, if it's really really black, change it.
 
After attending numerous lubrication seminars I have come to understand that synthetic oil is not the best for anything that's going to sit
for a long period of time, because it drains off faster and leaves bare metal. If you use your tractor monthly year around then it would be
fine, and it would start better in cold weather. Synthetic is best for both temperature extremes, very hot, or very cold.
 

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