Farmall 300 head questions

Hello-

First want to say thank you for all the input from members on diagnosing my cracked head on my Farmall 300 row crop tractor. Have a few questions for the reinstall once I find a good head.

1. Should I remove all the head studs from engine block for cleaning and reseal the threads when putting back in? Best way to reinstall studs (meaning do the studs have to be torqued or just tight)?

2. What is best way to prep engine block head gasket surface before reinstalling head? Was thinking of using a buffing wheel on a small right angle air grinder to clean up the surface.

3. The IH manual says to tighten head nuts to 70 ft. pounds in an even pattern. Is there a proper torque sequence, other than "even" pattern the manual describes? Work from middle of head and go outward? Torque in steps up to 70?

4. The head gasket I removed was a Victor gasket. Are these good quality head gaskets? Anyone know the Victor head gasket set part number for the C-169 engine? I can't find it anywhere online.

5. Part number on the top of the pistons is 374299R1 and also CAM-Z16. Are these fire crater pistons, they are not flat top, have raised portion on them? Also, are the pistons oversize to what a C175 engine would be like in a Farmall 350?

6. Anywhere near central WI that you guys would trust with a head crack repair, or a shop that will check a used head?


Thanks again for all the help so far! I hope to get this tractor back up an running soon.

-Jesse
 
yes, circular motion from center out ; divide total torque into thirds [ie] 25 then 50 then final 70. top of block much easier to clean with studs out; motor service in wausau is very reputable.
 
do not use an angle grinder for cleaning, u will then be resurfacing the head due to getting it full of waves. scotch brite pads work pretty
good. yes victor is a good gasket. felpro not as good but on a gas engine not so critical. i use felpro gasket spray on head gaskets. ideal
is to remove studs clean up check and reseal with blue locktite ,reinstall and torque. yes on the 3 step torque and a retorque after running
to operating temp.might be cheaper to find another head , but you are looking at a valve job anyway u cut it 4-500.00. and yes shop pressure
check heads. they have a rubber and plate that is bolted to the head then checked with air pressure.do a check on that torque spec. it
appears light to me , i thought around 90 ft.lbs.. just saying.
 
Yes pistons are fire crater the same diameter that were used in a 350. C-169 and C-175 blocks have the same bore ID without sleeves. Would need to look in my gaskets to get the number for a head set with steel sided gasket like originals. Takes more work cleaning deck on block but I leave the studs in unless damaged or loose. Use a scraper and finish with brake cleaner. Found if studs are removed and the stud threads in blocks are cleaned up with a tap, when studs are screwed in tight some may end up not leaving room for a nut to have full threads. On removed studs use a little sealer on ones that don't have blind holes. Some 300 heads get a crack near top center. Before cleaning deck stuff paper towels in cylinders, put a plug in oil passage and stuff towels in the other openings.
 
Picture not the best but this is what IH wanted for the tight pattern. Nuts lubed with 30 weight oil and final torque of 73.
mvphoto68468.jpg

mvphoto68469.jpg
 
i like the roloc bristle disks for cleaning up old gasket material. not aggressive like a sanding disk or scotchbrite type roloc heres a link. napa has them
poke here
 
I don't pull studs that stay in just clean around them with a file tail and a rag they will clean right up. Or a wire brush and rag. If they appear to be pulled at the stud I would remove it then check for flat there and go from that point. I have even laid a file flat down and run it over threaded holes if it looked like it didn't set flat.
 
First I agree with Catguy you don’t need to pull the
studs. And to clarify what he was saying about ..being
pulled up.. he is talking about the threads or the block
surface right where it screws in the head. So if the
area around a stud appears to be high when running
a file flat over it deck surface..gasket surface on top of
the block.. then pull that stud and investigate further.
Now if it was a diesel I would say yes pull the studs
and make darn sure it is good and flat..that is a
general statement about diesels IH didn’t build a 300
diesel.. I attached a link to the picture you posted in
your previous post showing where the coolant came
out of a crack on top of the head. In this case I would
recommend getting a different head. Right now in the
YT classified adds a guy in Ohio has a 300 head for
sale for $150.
Pic in previous post
 
Do not use a scotch bright whizzy wheel. I
resurface heads that people get after with
them. They remove material.
 

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