What should an H be worth?

Looking at an H. I've been wanting to buy it for several years. Tires are pretty bad, and some sheet metal is missing, but it otherwise looks in okay shape. I'm pretty new to this, so what should I pay for it? What would its scrap value be?

(quoted from post at 11:29:59 03/31/20) Looking at an H. I've been wanting to buy it for several years. Tires are pretty bad, and some sheet metal is missing, but it otherwise looks in okay shape. I'm pretty new to this, so what should I pay for it? What would its scrap value be?

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Lots of missing information. Does it run? Yrar? What all sheet metal is missing? Fenders, belt pulley, weights, etc? Tires are very expensive. With the info you've gave us, probably close to scrap value

To answer your questions: I am told it runs, though I have not seen it. The PTO shield is missing, along with the plate that covers the hand crank (not sure what it's
called). It has fenders, though I don't remember a belt pulley. No weights, but it has a front loader on it. As far as anything mechanical, it's missing a battery and I'm
told it was running rough when parked. As for the year, I believe it's a late 40's model.

What brand of loader? Loaders for those can run from 100 dollars to a 1,000 dollars or more depending on brand, features, and condition. A lot of unknowns at this point. Running (even poorly) with an antiquated loader and poor tires probably worth 600 dollars. The fallout from Corona virus might include a permanent decline in the value of such tractors. Used to be decades ago good H's and M's could be bought for 400-500 dollars when supply was far greater than demand. Could see a similar situation as people rush to have cash on hand to deal with existing financial problems or expected financial problems.

Areas places a different value on them. In MN/WI by the cities you can buy running ones for 1000-1200 with ok tires. Tires make a lot of difference. Salvage around here if the sheet metal
is good 300-400.Type of loader also makes a difference. I am guessing if it went on auction here right now maybe 900 at best, if it needs tires and runs rough and needs sheet metal
less.Too many of them around and without power steering they don't sell well.

Loader seems like a McCormick #30 or #31. Also the fact that it ran rough when parked 10 or so years ago is in consideration. What do you think? Worth it? (I am prepared to do a rebuild, I just don't want to).

Most H's I see listed around here range from $500-$900. Occasionally someone will list one for a crazy amount like one that is currently listed for close to $10,000. I bought mine for $800 with a loader on it and had to get it running to load it on the trailer. I ended up overhauling it, rebuilding the head, going through everything and painting it.

Pictures would help a lot. Non-running H's will bring up to 500 dollars or more. There was a local online auction last fall for a non-running H with a couple of things
missing but looked fairly straight and it brought 800 dollars. I still predict a shift in the market so I would not pay anymore than 700 dollars without more info. Both you
and the seller have choices in this. Is there a sentimental factor to this? McCormick 30 or 31 loader is of minimal value unless you have a rare moment where somebody
needs to get one to have ready for a show this summer.

If it ran, even rough, and has been untouched for years, it is likely stuck now. If the engine is free to turn, it is worth 3 to 500 more than if it is stuck. If it has a crank, make sure it is in neutral (stick moves left and right 10 inches) then try to rotate the engine. If it will rotate some, good. If it feels stone frozen, it it stuck. Tires with air allow moving onto a trailer far more easily than when flat.
Do not try to pull it to see if it can be made to turn, that will break things quite often. Find out what scrap prices for a 4000 pound tractor are at your local yard. Pretty bleak. But if stuck, that is all it is worth. Jim

Missing a PTO shield is not uncommon. They can be found. 39's through about 42, PTO shields were shorter than later ones as the styles of PTO's were different. The longer shields bolt pattern is the same, if I remember correctly. Fenders in our part of the world will bring $100 (& more) each because they are not real common here.

Chances are the starter shaft is frozen in the front pedistal mounting. Mine is, and my uncles M
was way back in the 60s. It was a 41. Sometimes battery box is missing. Mine is, tho I bought a
used one. IF you dont have a GOOD battery and generator or altinator on it, ditch the batt box.
I did. I dont have a alt or generator on mine so I have to jump the old batt. I paid $400 for
mine, and it runs great. I bought it at auction some 10yrs ago. Havnt seen one with a sheld on
the PTO in ages. DDad took his off his H back in the 50s, and I suppose its still around the home
place somewhere. IF It wont start, and you have another old tractor handy and a belt, you can
start it off the pulley wheel. Put it in nutral, pull out the pulley activation lever down
towards the foot board, put the belt on the pulley, give the belt a twist and put on other
tractor. Make sure the gas is new, and if not put in ethel gas, or hi octane to get it started
with. make sure the oils OK. It can be old if just for starting/running purposes just so it
drains out of at least one of the drains on the pulley side down on the oil pan. Put the brakes
on, tighten the belt, and when belt seats evenly on both pulleys, let her rip. slow to medium
speed is best. When I do it, which is seldom, I use my 40 B. I have to open the gas up on the
bowel, have the hand lever all the way forward, and kinda rock it to get the H rolling. Got to
watch what Im doing or ill easily kill the B

I bought an H a few weeks ago for $900. It was running, but needed a manifold and brakes. Came with a Saginaw hitch, but missing the fenders and insert for the grill. Sheet metal was straight and engine ran strong. Also had a new fuel tank, that's $300 by itself.

A lot also depends on its use to you. They aren't too terribly expensive to work on, but on H's and M's you will almost certainly not get your money back if you sell it.

I think scrap value should be $200-$300.

Went to an IH collector auction last fall. The only thing that went for 200-300 dollars was a C stripped down to the castings with the head missing. I was going to bid a very rough and stuck M but the darn things sold for 475 dollars to someone else.

Judging by your description and the fact you
want it. $1000

Paid 400 dollars for this 44 H, two years ago. P.O. got it on trade for work he had done. Said it ran but had transmission problems. I was just going to use it for parts for my other 2 H,s. I ended up resleeving the engine and putting 7 bearing, 6 seals, and 2 gears in it. It is converted to 12 volts and has new brakes. Rear rims need repair. Still have to replace reverse gear and shaft. It might be worth a 1,000 dollars if the paint was in better shape. It is all in how bad you want it and what your going to do with it.

Running in the condition described, $750 max plus $100 for the loader would be a fair price. Fenders might add some value, but could be hard to sell right now. Four brand new tires could cost $1200 or more. Salvage value $200 max with the loader.