Super H with loader

TallPaul

New User
Space is getting tight and I'm thinking about thinning the herd. I've had a Super H for a long time and really only use it when I need to use the loader to lift something heavy. TBH, our land is somewhat hilly and I don't like using the SH with its narrow front end on anything that's not flat. I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out its value, as I don't see that many sales of SH's with loaders. Moreover, I'm really more of an 8N guy, so I don't follow Farmall values. Last month I bought a second 8N, AND a JD820, BOTH with loaders, so the Super H doesn't really have a job anymore.

Here's what I know about it. Serial number 20740J, battery under the seat, so Stage 2, I assume. Sheet metal is in good shape, no dents, but not restored (except the battery box, which is a mess). Tires are fair; they work for me but wouldn't for someone doing a restoration. The loader is an International. The engine and hydraulics are both in good shape.

Sorry if this sounds like an ad. That's not my intention. I'm just trying to get a ballpark figure. Thanks.
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Hydraulic bucket on your loader would be handy, I have a Super H a couple hundred after yours, and my loader is a modified Ford that looks similar to an IH #2000 from the early 1960's, tubular rectangular steel arms, not a pipe loader. Only down side is the trip bucket.

Stage 2 Super H's are worth much more than Stage 1 or straight H's. I'd guess your tractor would sell for between $2000 and $3000. You don't say where you are located, but location matters. The paint on the tractor is really bad, but no dents is a good thing. With the loader, the front tires/rims should be set in the narrowest position, set wide like that over-loads the outer wheel bearing. This is straight from the Operator's manual. Looks like two pair of wheel weights, they are worth $75-$100 per pair. If the tractor was converted to 12V with an alternator that would be a plus. They start better, recharge the battery better, and have far fewer electrical problems overall.

A Super H with a nice loader like that should be worth more than an 8N, 8N's have really dropped in value the last couple years. I've had the loader on mine for 23 years, had the tractor for 50, used to put 250 hours a year on it when Dad was still farming. I have an M that has been a loader tractor since brand new. Neither loader tractor have ever even been close to tipping over. Narrow frt end really isn't a
problem on a loader tractor. Carry the load low, no sharp turns, and you will keep the tractor on all 4 wheels. I replaced my battery box seat base about 1981, 27 years old, that was 37 years ago, no rust at all on new one. Dust entered and settled on the bottom of the original one, had a lot to do with rusting it out. I'd hate to think how bad of shape it would be after 64 years!

I don't understand the logic of getting rid of a Super H and keeping an 8N, but that's not what you asked.
 
I have a Super H, stage II, major issues repaired, painted decently (it was my first full tractor paint job, but I didn't get any runs). I wouldn't call it restored by any stretch, but it has good tires all the way around. I have way more than $3000 in it, but I don't think I could get $2000 out of it.

Frankly, that loader is better than a shovel, but it doesn't add more than a few hundred dollars to the value. Modern quick-attach, sure, but not an old pipe loader.

Low to mid $2000's is where I'd place its value. My advice, though, is shoot for the sky the first time you advertise it. You can always lower your price but good luck raising it.
 
I would think a decent Super H with a decent loader like yours should be worth +or- $2500, To me a tractor in its Work Clothes is good. Fresh paint it could be hiding problems.
 
Sell an 8N,use the money to put a wide front on the SH. Throw a couple of weights on the rear,fill the tires with fluid.....You will have a tractor that will lift and out work two 8Ns.And you will still have money in your pocket.
 
I think prices vary quite a bit depending on where you're located.

That's a nice looking rig. I'm envious of the hydraulic bucket.

I have the trip-bucket version of that loader on my M.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the front wheel spacing. It came that way and I never questioned it. Let's discuss the Super H vs. 8N, because I feel like I'm missing something. The SH doesn't have a 3 point lift, so what am I going to do with it? My 8N is handy for the mowing, bush hogging, digging posts, etc. All I've ever done with the SH is lift things with the loader.

What am I missing here?
 
Thanks to everyone for their input on the value. I still may end up keeping it and painting it, as I sort of like to do that and my last project turned out very nicely. But then again, there's only so much time in the day, I have a LOT of projects, and I don't have the energy I did back in the day.
 
As I said in a reply above, I don't really understand what work I can do with this tractor. There's no 3 point hitch, so aside from lifting heavy things, what does that leave?
 
Wheels only out 3 inches from all in in this picture and I sometimes mow a little more sloop than the picture. have moved wheels out to 4 inches from all the way and go pretty steep. May not follow everywhere in a 8N tracks but in rough going the larger diameter rear tires can go over rough stuff the 8N won't. Added a 2 point hitch to this one. Think it's in better condition than tractor pictured but doubt I could get $3000 where I live. Poor rear tires will hurt the price.
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I agree with the others that your SH will easily out preform an 8n. The fords a really light tractor.

Anyhow we're not here to debate that. The 47 H I bought this spring went for $1,750. Great runner, 12v conversion, paint was a mix of original and faded barn red and primer where a fender repair happened, and no dents.

This is just a guess but if mine was a super I'd expect another 200-300 tacked on.

I then bought a McCormick no 30 loader for $100 off the same guy.

If your rear is weighted and slid out. The only concern I'd have is that an SH or M could have enough power to twist and otherwise break tube type loaders. That just means you have to know your load.
 
Do an internet search for Continental post hole digger. Dad had one from WAY back before I was born. Bet I dug a 1000 post holes with it and before I started running it I know Dad dug 1000 more. Nobody knew what it was, didn't look like it would fit on a 3-point so sold for about $5 at Dad's last auction. He had several augers, the 2 ft diameter was used to plant trees. The Continental bolted to the big horseshoe drawbar of the SH with two bolts, Dad made the swinging drawbar quick detachable, I could hook up the the post hole digger in about 5 minutes.

The Super H never enjoyed being a Stage 3, no live PTO or Torque Amplifier, so using a bush hog was not as easy in close quarters as say a Super M-TA, or 300/350/400/450. Push the clutch in and the bush hog pushes you forward a ways, just like your 8N unless you install an over-running clutch extension on the pto shaft. Back from 1968 to 1972 I bush hogged hundreds of acres every year, without the over-running clutch and never had a single problem. I did a LOT of road work, like getting hog feed from the little farm town, 100 people, 5 miles from home, 5000-5500# ground shell corn in the Heider auger wagon. 3-4 loads a week all summer. Mowed hay, raked hay, pulled field sprayer, hauled in all the oats and corn, baled hay once with neighbot's #37 IH pto baler, ran it great in 2nd gear, got our normal 1000 bales in one afternoon, just Dad and I. Super H pulled the Deere 490 corn planter. I drove it pulling the wagon with the #5 IH endgate seeder, pulled the Deere model R ground driven manure spreader hauling manure from 500 to 800 head of hogs and 35-40 head of feeder cattle every year. Hauled a couple thousand gallons of water to the hog pasture every week, 350 gallon at a time.

ALL this without a 3-point hitch. Dad only ever owned one tractor with a 3-point hitch, 4010 diesel, never hooked a single thing to the 3-point in almost 4 years he owned it. Before the 4010 he had a 450 gas Farmall with IH Fast Hitch. We had an IH 4 bottom FH plow, a 6 ft Service brand FH blade, IH 5 ft #25 stalk shredder, built like a battleship! and mounted on FH.

We never had a problem putting 250 hours a year on the Super H. Spring of 1969 I bought a used distributor drive housing from my IH dealer, tach drive cable and tachometer head for a 300/350 Farmall. I had an hour meter, speedometer, and a tach. Since May 1969 it has run just shy of 2100 hours.

And FYI, DAD bought a brand new Stan-Hoist loader in about 1959/1960, whole loader and mounting brackets are pipe. A slightly hopped up M with M&W live hydraulics was too much tractor for it. It has patches on top of patches, on top of patches. The IH loader is a pretty good match for the Super H, I would be surprised if any part of your loader ever broke.

Whatever you want to do with a 3-point mounted attachment or implement, there is a pull-type equivalent or fully mounted implement that does the same thing. 2N, 9N, and 8N's were really scarce where I grew up. But Everybody had an H or M, or several of them.
 
Put an aftermarket 3 point on your H. then you can use 3 point equipment. I have thre points on A SH(I just gave that one to my sister) An M,A SuperM,and a 400. All work well.I can do anything with them that you can do with an 8N,and a whole lot more.......
 
Good luck with steering the N with a loader and anything in the bucket. Like Delta said. Though I despise 3PT equipment since it is such a pain to put on and take off. And a 3 Pt on an old Hor M makes them a pain to get on and off from.
 
FWIW, that's an IH #33A loader. I have an identical one on an H. The #33 was a trip bucket and the #33A was hydraulic tilt.
 
Don't want to start something just wondered where h's are bringing $2000. plus. Around here average selling price is around a grand. M's around 1500.00. Maybe I need to buy several and haul a load there. I am in northwest Ohio.
 
We are talking Stage Two SUPER H, live hydraulic engine driven hyd pump, battery box seat base, NOT A COMMOM, ONE OF 400,000 STRAIGHT H with a belly pump and 1-1/8" PTO shaft. Even early Stage 1 Super H's only bring $1000, disk brakes but belly pump, and fast 4th transmission.

Keep your straight H's, Had a '39 for several years before my Super H, and I'm NOT GOING BACK. A 300 or 350 with 3 hyd valves, LPTO, TA and Power Steering would be the best, but I'm not giving up my Stage 2.
 

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