Cannot move Crankshaft by hand

vac12

New User
I cannot move the crankshaft by hand on my 1953 VAC. I removed the valve cover and the oil pan and did not see anything broken or misplaced internally. The pan did have some water/sludge in it.

I removed the 4 spark plugs and #3 showed some rust inside. I put some marvels in each spark plug hole/cylinder and left it for a couple nights, still nothing. I also removed the starter and tried to move the flywheel with a crow bar. No dice.

What's should I try next to try and troubleshoot? It feels like something is lodged or stuck but unsure where. I don't know it's history but it does appear it has not started for numerous years if not decades.

Tranny can shift into gears fine.

TIA.

This post was edited by vac12 on 05/28/2023 at 10:13 am.
 
Have a bit more patience, if the starter has been removed, not much else that can be jammed up, unless something(rod) is broke inside. Which
you did not see from the bottom. So wait on Marvel to do its job and keep prying on the flywheel. Some advocate hanging a concrete block from
the crank handle so as to always have pressure on the pistons. If your not a patient person I suspect you could remove the rod cap on #3,
that you said had rust in the cylinder and see if you get any crank movement. good luck..make it live again...gobble
 
On my 600b I ran into the same issue. I could spin it a ways but it would stop cold. I ended up putting a large and long end wrench on the
front crankshaft nut and putting some leverage on it and it popped free and went around all the way. There was a rusty/gummy spot on one of
the cylinders that would catch and act like something was broken but thankfully just a rough spot from setting.
 
Tap each valve to check for movement up and
down especially on #3. Oil them down while
your doing this and don't hammer a stuck
one on down because you most likely will
have to pull the head to get it to return.
If they are free, let your oil soak a
while. Maybe I'm weak, but I have better
luck with a longer bar than what your
using.
 
BE patient. Make sure you put plenty of lube in the cylinders. I would jack up one rear wheel and put it in 4th gear and occasionally shake the tire back and forth.
 
Next step is to pull the head. That will take 1/2 hr. There
is no miracles once rust gets into cylinders
 
Do you know the history of the tractor? Was it yours and ran until it was parked? I ask because one other thing that will lock an engine up tight is to put the rod
bearing caps back on backwards! And I can tell you from experience it doesn't mean all of them are backwards. We had 2 backwards on a 6 cyl engine and it would not
budge. So, if the other things mentioned don't work---by all means try them first. And you have to drop the pan, remove the caps 1 at a time and try to turn the engine.
 
(quoted from post at 03:35:22 05/29/23) BE patient. Make sure you put plenty of lube in the cylinders. I would jack up one rear wheel and put it in 4th gear and occasionally shake the tire back and forth.

Ditto on the rear wheel jack up, jerk the wheel back & forth, lots of leverage there much more than you will get on the flywheel. If you have a belt pulley make sure it is disengaged, as well as, any rear pto. Some ATF in plug holes with help the penetrate.
 
History? Did it run OK yesterday, is it a fresh overhaul, is it a new-to-you purchase, or has it been parked in the fence row for two decades with the exhaust open to the weather?
 

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