930 still warm

930 is still running warm, so I plan to
put 160 degrees. Where to you drill to
let some bypass

<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto23487.jpg"

Dan, my one Cummins in the 3/4 ton Dodge ran warm. Could see the radiator had some build-up. Drained most of the antifreeze and added 2 1/2 gallons of vinegar. Ran it for a few days and flushed the whole system. New antifreeze and it runs normal temp. again. Your mileage may vary....

Steve, I have flushed, several times, new radiator core, new water pump, new coolant, she runs up to 190-200 just running it down the road, I'm ready to take the 190s out that CNH is so proud of, and put in 160s

Dan, I got new 160 T stats and water pump from John. I drilled a single 3/16" hole in each flange between spring and outer edge of flange. They made a big difference with my running temp. It will still climb to 200 on a long hard pull, but I have to lug it really hard and steady for 10 minutes or more.--------Loren

I put the 160s in my 1030 but didn't drill them and so far it's working good. Pulling the 6 bottom in my heavy ground had it right at 200 or a little more, but that's where it stayed. On lighter work it runs at about 170 or so. I have a new radiator and pump too. The drilling I think would help to get them to open sooner if that is a problem, but it doesn't seem to be an issue on mine.

In my opinion the only thing that drilling a hole in the thermostat shell does is to allow filling the system from dry keeping the system from air locking while filling it giving air a place to move out of the water manifold, It may as one poster said let warm water get to the thermostats quicker but does nothing appreciable to aid cooling as the amount of flow through a 3/16 hole is negligable.

Mel: When there is a problem, I always advise the guys to drill the T'stat. As you say, it will not help in actual cooling, BUT will allow coolant to flow by the T'stat constantly so there is no "dead" coolant, allowing the hot coolant to get there quicker, and thus allow the T'stat to open quicker.

I first started drilling a 1/8 inch hole in the flat on Olds diesels so the system with the cross flow radiator will expel air faster when filling the system. If you look really close there's a very small notch in the valve edge too, but too small to do any good in my opinion.

I agree with that and drill tstats also. what I am seeing from these posts is that even though we are dropping back to 160 stats we are not dropping the operating temperature accordingly ( 20 deg), some but not proportion to the stat temp change. A properly proportioned antifreeze solution and a good pressure cap should raise the boiling point of the coolant well above boiling temps. I would be very choosy what tstat I put in those engines, auto parts ones may fit but possibly may not have enough flow for those big engines

Thank you Loren, this is what I was after.

Here I thought I was the only one with this issue

I think fellows forget the stat actually controls how COLD the engine runs, if stat is working right it's wide open when the engine is hot. I get told I'm nuts sometimes when I also say DRAIN the anti-freeze, and replace it with soft water. I used to do that each spring on the MF 1150 with the 510 Perkins V-8, it would run 10-15 degrees cooler with water instead of the anti-freeze. Remember science class? Any liquid that evaporates will absorb/release heat faster than the liquid that evaporates slowly. Anti-freeze absorbs heat well, but doesn't RELEASE it as well as water does as anti-freeze evaporates slowly. I keep a tray of anti-freeze next to my bench grinder instead of water because it stays longer than water does.

Dan if you get stats from CASE you will have one that you know will allow proper flow and they do have a very small I will call it crimped area that does allow a tiny bit of venting so there is know real reason for drilling a hole in them. As Mel mentioned a drilled vent will allow for quicker air removal went filling. But once the stat begins to open the hole serves no purpose, it does not hurt anything but has no advantage either. I have seen some CASE engines with drilled stats that will not warm up to proper operating temp unless under a load and running cool is not good for a engine either. If your 930 runs at 200 that is not to hot, the CASE stats are not fully open until 202. I was taught a engine is hot unless it boils out coolant, most modern pressurized systems are good till around 220. I would not install a stats from a parts house unless I could not get the proper one from CASE. They cost a couple bucks more but I have had zero problems with them through the years. Installing a cooler stat will not cure a heating problem, it will only slow the temp rise for a short period of time. Also I should mention temp gauges can be off 10 degrees easily. CASE service school guys told us the reason they went to the color zone temp gauges on the 70 series and later tractors was because to many operators would be complaining about overheating issues if the saw they normally ran at 200+ degrees. Instead they saw they ran barely in the green and thought wow this runs cool when in fact it was at 200. Sorry for the long explanation, Rod.

Forgot to mention, that is not a CASE stat, toss them a get 2 from a CASE place or if you want I will give you a couple for you to try. Find out if you want to keep them and we can settle up later or send them back, Rod.

Rod, I did have Case 190s in there,but she was doing this below. So I called John ask him some options, he sent me out some made in the USA 160 stats.
What isses me off is my other drove that road that is did where it got right up too 200, and the other was around 140.

Dan 140 is not warm enough, 160 is not either or they would have shipped them from the factory with them. The engine will be more efficient at 200 and run cleaner. If you guys would install a 1070 sending unit and gauge in a 930 running at that temp it would show it running in the green on that gauge. Case pounded it in my head that they consider a 200+ temp normal unless it was boiling out coolant. But it is your tractor and I want you to do what you think is right. I have been wrong many times, yes I have,LOL. But I do know for a fact 200 is a better operating temp on CASE 6 cly diesel than 160 and a colder stat will not cure a heating issue, is will only slow it down.To check your actual operating temp you could use a hand held temp gun and check surface temps. Good luck and keep your cool! Rod.

I do some part time driving for a local school bus company. They have some new busses with Cummins engines which run warm (above center gauge but no numbers on the gauge so not sure of exact temp) and they have auxiliary fans which turn on when gauge gets to about 3/4 of the range, then that drops the gauge to just above 1/2 range and the aux fan shuts off. Those fans cycle as needed. I'm not an expert on this subject but I agree with Rod that 200+ shouldn't be a major concern.

I also agree that soft water is better than antifreeze as the coolant. I have read that in "scientific" readings but don't ask me where !!

200+ may be efficient, but one must never forget the CASE heads are prone to cracking, especially the pre 1970 heads. Heat & ether. Anything above 185 bothers me.

Don't know where you found that either, but anyone can claim "scientific". Running straight water will lead to corrosion and deposits in your cooling system, vastly reducing its efficiency. Best is a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water.

Hi John, the 70 and 90 series tractors around here have had almost no cracking problems. We do see some small heat stress cracks around injector holes but almost never causing a leak. I an count on one hand the number of those heads I have replaced. Now the 30 series that is another subject. I am glad you stick to guns on a subject, I like that and always look forward to hearing your opinion. We don't learn anything if we don't listen to others, thanks, Rod.

Thank You Rod!!

(reply to post at 08:21:04 05/20/19)

Click to expand...

am reading this discussion and enjoying each one's input,
I, as well as most on here have been around these engines for all my life and was around when they were introduced, I guess that makes me an old guy, My opinion, most head cracking is the result of improper cool down or lack of cooling system care, loose fan belts,dirty radiator cores, etc.

I wish people would use block heaters and avoid ether as well as John does but I do not believe that ether on startup causes cracked heads, it does lead to other serious problems such as broken rings or broken ring lands on pistons, blown gaskets. I have seen ether abused to the point that it sounds like the engine is coming apart. I also believe that those engines can be run over 200 degrees and from what I am seeing the 160 stats are not lowering the actual operating temp significantly as I mentioned in another post if u guys are still running 200 degrees working.

I have built hand made blower setups for 830s and have a couple running at over 90 HP and have had no complaints of head cracking.

1030's had a design flaw, to a point, in how the top tank was situated and trapped air, it was hard to keep them full-full. I always drill the thermostats, but more to get rid of air than anything, I don't think it makes much difference on how it cools. Agree with most everything said, if you're at a reasonable RPM when the thermostat opens and it still gets to 210+, a lower temp thermostat isn't going to do much, it'll still get there. I'm not even sure what's in mine for a brand, probably whatever Abilene sent me with the last water pump , but I know they're 180-185s - same worry with cracked heads, I like it to cool off good. When you flushed it, what did you use? I know you can't get the really good flush stuff anymore, too toxic, but I've gotten swimming pool descaler and used it with pretty good results....might still be fighting buildup. I have a couple old pickups with 400 Fords, and it worked well on those. If that didn't do it, I'd be thinking pretty seriously about pulling that radiator, possibly a new water pump, something like that. Another thing I've seen done but haven't myself, is a double-sealed pressure cap and the overflow run into a burp bottle, to make dang sure the radiator stays full - an extra half-gallon of coolant can't hurt.....

Front, I had one customer that had a coolant problem 770, It constantly got rid of coolant I did as you said and put a sealed coolant cap and a burp bottle on and completely eliminated the problem, has ran several years without a cooling problem.