D17 Wheel Locking Up

Good Afternoon, I have a Series 4 D17 Allis and I am having some trouble and am hoping someone here might have a little more experience with these particular tractors and might be able to point me in the right direction. I was using my D17 this morning grading a little dirt with the back blade going real slow and easy and the left wheel bound up and stopped the tractor so I backed up it moved several feet and locked up again. I managed between alternating forward and reverse and easing it gently back 15 yards or so to the driveway but I don t want to move it much more because I don t want to break anything. I
Suspect the brakes are coming apart on that side and that s what s causing the issue but I was wondering if anyone might be able to tell me kinda where to start with checking the brakes on that side before I tear off the whole side of the tractor to dig into them.

I'd say you're right on suspecting the brakes. And I don't think there's much you can do short of 'tearing it apart'.

Talked with my wifes Grandfather and he said years ago he had taken that side apart and replaced some steel balls in the brakes so im thinking its probably got some worn out pieces. Anyone recommend a good repair manual ? Advice ? Ive done my fair share of turning wrench so im not overly concerned just like to have some idea what im getting into.

(quoted from post at 13:12:19 06/04/23) Talked with my wifes Grandfather and he said years ago he had taken that side apart and replaced some steel balls in the brakes so im thinking its probably got some worn out pieces. Anyone recommend a good repair manual ? Advice ? Ive done my fair share of turning wrench so im not overly concerned just like to have some idea what im getting into.

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Don't know what you have for equipment as far as tooling. Left rear wheel comes off and roll it out of the way. Left fender/toolbox may need to come off depending on tooling. A cherry picker will handle the left final drive after you remove the lift arm cylinder REAR pin and drop it down. Then disconnect the hose and remove the 90 degree fitting from the cylinder. Remove six nut and pull the final drive out about 12 inches and you are there. Two new brake bands. Two new band return springs. Replace the drum lining with new and do you have a rivet machine?? Two new brake drum return springs. Grease the balls and the pockets they sit in. Now, replace drum parts as needed depending on how much damage you've done. Assemble with new parts. Measure the brake disc side clearance. If it is more than .040" you need to add shims behind the outer brake plate to get it down to .030" . Remove brake pull rod and clean the threads and antiseize it when reassembling. DO THIS or you will regret it later on. Flat rate labor to do the left side is 3 to 4 hours labor for an experienced tech with proper tools. I did one in 45 minutes one time 30 yrs ago on a bet. I didn't have any DAMAGED parts so it went quick and easy.

This post was edited by DrAllis on 06/04/2023 at 02:05 pm.

Reprints of original AC manuals are available maybe from this site or others.

Just checked, they have reprints right here on YT.

I dont have a rivet machine, I have a heavy duty rivet gun
but Im not sure thats probably what I need doesnt sound
too awful.

(quoted from post at 15:56:54 06/04/23) I dont have a rivet machine, I have a heavy duty rivet gun
but Im not sure thats probably what I need doesnt sound
too awful.

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45 yrs ago I didn't have a rivetor either. A center punch first. Then, a larger punch to finish it. Takes more time but can be done. Also, I ALWAYS replace the axle shaft oil seal and O ring while in there.