aC CA

meminks · Nov 23, 2020

I'm having trouble with my ca getting any spark. Not seeing a spark at the points. Just replaced points, plugs, coil, ignition switch. Just printed out a wiring diagram but i won't have anytime to look at it till thursday and i really need to get it out of the rain. Anybody have any suggestions on what to look at first. I do have voltage to the headlight if i pull the light switch all the way out but other than that i am pretty much lost as to what to check. Open to all suggestions except "sell it"

Jim.ME · Nov 23, 2020

(quoted from post at 17:34:56 11/23/20) I'm having trouble with my ca getting any spark. Not seeing a spark at the points. Just replaced points, plugs, coil, ignition switch. Just printed out a wiring diagram but i won't have anytime to look at it till thursday and i really need to get it out of the rain. Anybody have any suggestions on what to look at first. I do have voltage to the headlight if i pull the light switch all the way out but other than that i am pretty much lost as to what to check. Open to all suggestions except "sell it"

First, please answer some questions. Was it running before you changed these parts, or did you start changing parts because it didn't start? Is it still 6 volt positive ground or has it been converted to 12 volt negative (with an alternator)? Next, Do you have a voltmeter, or a test light? If you don't have either, you should get a volt-ohm-meter (VOM, aka multimeter) to use to test with. With the points open using a VOM check for voltage coming to the coil and then to the terminal where the point strap connects in the distributor. No voltage coming to the coil, the problem is between your coil and the switch. If voltage to the coil but no voltage to the points, the coil, the wire, or a connection between the coil and points is bad. If you have no power at the ignition terminal of the ign switch, you need to check that there is power coming to the switch and that you have connected the wires to the proper terminals of the switch (assuming the new switch is a correct one). Post back with what you find.

meminks · Nov 23, 2020

It has not been running for about 5 years since it got waterlogged and then froze up. It is still 6 volt. I have a voltmeter and will check what you said. I take it all
tests should be done with key on. the coil test should be done to positive side of coil?

Jim.ME · Nov 23, 2020

If it is 6 volt positive ground, as original, the wire from the ignition switch should go to the negative (-) terminal of the coil The wire to the distributor goes on the positive (+) terminal. With the key on, if the points are open, you should have battery voltage, or very close to it, at each connection point all the way to the points in the distributor.

LandonT · Nov 23, 2020

no, check the voltage at the - side of the coil to check the wiring from the battery, for 6V positive ground, should be nothing with ignition off and about 6V with ignition on.
And you did get a 6V coil, correct?
After turning over, do you get a blue spark when separating the points? Have you replaced the condensor?
CA is a wonderful tractor.

4wdtom · Nov 24, 2020

Run a jumper wire from the hot side of the battery to the coil and try it, switch off. If it runs the problem is in the wires supplying the coil. If it still isn't working the problem is in the actual ignition parts, coil, distributor somewhere.

old · Nov 24, 2020

I have found one of the simplest pieces of test equipment is a wire. One hook the wire to the side of the battery that isn't ground then touches the wire to the ignition side of the coil. When you do that you should see a small spark when you hook it up and unhook it if the points are closed. Then move the engine so the points are open and touch the wire to the coil again. If you still get a spark then you have a short in the distributor. That is a sure fire way to test the ignition system

jhncp · Nov 25, 2020

A simple test light helps alot to trace where you got power. Test at coil to ground, at ignition switch etc. Also you may have installed points incorrectly and there shorted out. You should be able to open and close with screw driver and spark should jump from coil spark plug wire to ground 1/4"

meminks · Nov 26, 2020

Jim, first off thanks for your help. I
replaced the ground cable and now have 6
volts at the - side of the coil, sometimes.
I have a fairly nice vom but when I check
things it seems as if I have to jiggle the
leads to get it to read. I tried a
different one and it is the same way whick
makes me think it is the tractor and not
the meter. The point where the battery was
grounded was pretty rusty so I filed it
shiny. After getting voltage at the coil I
checked the connection for the points
inside the distributor and sometimes I got
6 and most of the times nothing. I put the
old coil on and nothing changed. What am I
missing?

Jim.ME · Nov 26, 2020

Are the contact points you are touching with your VOM clean bare metal? If not that could affect the meter. Are the points clearly open?

Unhook the wire going to the distributor from the coil and see if you get a steady 6 volts on both primary wire terminals of the coil. with the key on. If the voltage is still erratic with the distributor wire disconnected, you need to check the wiring back to the ignition switch. If it is stable check the wiring to the distributor and the point it goes into the distributor closely for a short or broken wire. Make sure the wires or terminal of the insulation block the strap of the points connects to isn't touching anything.

aC CA

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