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More B linkage help

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
The old motor has good linkage on it. The " new" one s having issues. It just won't move at all when you move throttle lever, until you get wide open then it moves and cross over bar hits fan blade. I think it's rigged up. Can I swap em? Looks like 4 bolts? What's gonna fall out? What's will need adjusting? Or just unbolt one and bolt it in other motor? Thanks!

cvphoto22802.jpg

New one
cvphoto22803.jpg


cvphoto22804.jpg

Old one. It had an oil fitting. New one doesn't. Just cap it? I don't remember where line ran from
 
If I rememebr right you have to be sure of things or you will mess up the timing but this late at night I cannot go ot and look to be sure
 
Does the shaft of the long lever move freely in the governor cover?

If not, it may have rusted a bit while sitting, and need some lube and exercise to free it up.

If it DOES move freely, likely swapping the cover and arm won't fix your problem, most likely, the governor inside the cover is messed up, and removing it for repairs or swapping it involves correctly timing it to the camshaft gear, and removing the mag first, then reinstalling it last with the mag drive lugs inserted into the slots in the governor shaft, then timing the mag.

If the mag is not removed and the lugs and slot aren't aligned when the governor cover is tightened down stuff will break!

GUESSING the P.O. must have LIED when he sold you a good "take out" engine????

"Ran when parked"!
 
Just for fun I took the cover off the old one. Looks like a fork thing. And a couple weights. Fork pushes on weights. Decided it was late. Put it back on. Slipped right back in to place. What needs timing? What can break? Lugs and slots? Pictures? Thanks
 
If you pull the complete gov off it pulls the timing gears with it and that is where the trouble you can run into. By the way you said you where going to call me today but you didn't LOL
 
The line runs from the fitting on the head just above the filter and forward. the older engines had an elbow and no line to the governor. The newer engines had a tee with the line going to the governor. If you want the line you will need to swap out the elbow for the tee.
Go back down to the to the link in my post with the pictures and the linkage adjustment are explained. You might want to sway governor covers to have the linkage to match. The adjustment are at the cross over arm and bending is the adjustment. I have long arms and would stand in front with a pipe wrench in my left hand holding the arm at the top bend and a piece of 1/2" pipe in the other over the cross over arm.
 
I buying 14 or more of the B, C, and CA's then stripping them down and swapping parts from a large pile of parts I found that most of the cross over arms needed to be bent to get the proper throttle control. Unlike most I started a little different on rebuilding one of them.
Here
 
First of all, it appears you have some 1939 or so linkage combined with 1944 ? or so gov spring linkage. That will NOT work. The 39 linkage had a very short and stiff governor spring. The newer spring was like a CA/D10-12/D14/D15 and had a plunger inside of the spring to idle the engine down fully. You can't have a 39 cross arm/fork and a newer spring or vice versa. Bending the cross arm to clear the fan is OK, but just barely clear the fan and then you will have to bend the link rod from the arms end to the carb to get the governor synchronized to the carb. Engine off and hand throttle wide open, the length of the link rod should be exactly correct so when you unhook it the cross arm doesn't move.
 
Dick L, on the linkage that's on the tractor the the 2 pieces don't move smoothly together. Also the the pivot point on the piece that the throttle rod hooks to wants to tip out of it hole a bit. I found the oil line and fitting on the old head. Ok to swap them out too? On the one that's on the old motor it works much better. All i want to swap is the cover with the linkage sticking out of it and the fork in it. If I did that it won't break anything or get it out of time? Thanks. By the way, great pictures of that disassembly process! I didn't get our B that far apart!
 
No problem switching the elbow to a tee. The 1/8" line limits the volume of flow from the pump. The oil on the first engines relied on the governor gear to bring oil up to lube the governor gear bearing. I have never noticed that bearing being damaged from a lack of oil. However the oil line puts oil on the top of the gear and it has to give that bearing more lubrication. Some where I have a picture of the crate of governor covers with different cross over arms with different connector ends that I picked from.
 
The some of the older B's and all of the C's I bought had the plunger inside the spring also. I have no idea when they started using the plunger inside the spring.
 
Dick L, covers and linkage switched. It appears to be working. Under this oil line should there be a nut to hold the arm down?
cvphoto22870.jpg

Or some washers as spacers?
 
Great! They don't have a nut. It looks like the is higher than most. If it seems to ride up a washer wouldn't cause a problem. The spring will tend to keep it in line with the cross over arm as long as the pin doesn't wobble in the cover.
 
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